원정 개요

Bumann - 13 Nov 80

BC 23 Oct - 4870m
C1 28 Oct - 6100m
Summit bit more than 7000m, maybe 7030m
Summit 30 Oct - Braun
Renner
Summit 31 Oct - Zurfluh
Werner
Kappenberger
Krishneswar Rai

Bumann returned from summit bid because not well.

Route = NE Spur to North Ridge, so-called French route as French did 1st ascent of it in 1978. Better snow conditions especially the higher zones than French had - better packed.

No accidents, etc. Some altitude sickness because so quick. Did not know before coming to KTM that had to stop climb by end October.

Steeper then expected: fixed 700-800m rope (on NE Ridge only). Had to use Japanese and Swiss fixed ropes which found on lowest part of North Ridge (which did not climb).

Had porter problem getting to BC and were delayed; was festival time.
All arrived KTM yesterday.


Bumann (leader) - 7 Oct 80

Swiss Tilicho Expedition 1980
Route = North Ridge, same as 1979 or spring 1980 expeditions (which had different
routes at lower part of mountain but North Ridge higher up).

All 8 members now in KTM
Hope to leave after 3 or 4 days depending on baggage from Delhi
Perhaps leave in 2 parties
12 days to BC at 4900-5000m, 20 days climbing.
BC near Tilicho Lake between Lake and Mesokantu La
2 camps above BC - C2 about 6500m
No Sherpas above BC.
Medical oxygen only