원정 개요

Sterbova - 10 Nov 80

First camps established quickly with help of many local porters. After 10 Oct came bad weather, snow and wind and after 15 Oct very cold. C3 established after going down from C2; C3 about 6 Oct at 6500m. C4 about 10 Oct at 6800-6900m near North Col. Again bad weather for several days. From 15 Oct half of members waited in C2 for good weather but on summit ridge very cold, -30 degrees C and daily snow in evening. Route had been fixed up summit ridge by Austrians but Czechs could not go on ridge with 4-5 days good weather, but with cold and very bad winds not possible. Expedition cancelled 23 Oct.

High point on ridge reached by Jana Koukalova, Marusincova and Sterba at 7200m on several days, on 22 Oct by 2 women and by leader's husband 5 days before with Rolf Wiederhofer; never tried to climb South Ridge. Had always waited to do NE Face and Schell readily agreed when met at BC.

No accidents, frostbite, serious illness.


Goeschl and Gruber - 27 Oct 80
Austrian Manaslu Expedition

Czech women went on same route as Austrains behind Austrians; used Austrians fixed rope.


Sterbova - 8 Sept 80

Czech ladies go to Manaslu.
South Ridge, same as Polish 1980 spring; if it is too hard we will change
the route to NE Face joining Austrians.
Leave KTM tomorrow by road to Trisuli Bazaar-Arughat-Jakat-Samagaon
13 to 15 days to BC at 4000m at foot of South Ridge
5 camps above BC with C5 7500m
4 Sherpas above including sirdar Ang Temba
Oxygen for medical only
Summit end of Oct


Hroza, Himalchuli exp - 9 Sept 80

Highest point reached by Czechoslovak woman (except Vera Komarkova on Annapurna I) is 7400m on Noshaq by Manaslu ladies leader.

Noshaq = 7492m in Hindu Kush soloed by Mrs Sterbova according to Cleare's book (point 1554) in 1977 from Kabul (mtn appears to be on Afghan-Pakistan border).