원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Molinari - 14 Nov 80

Re photo: (dotted lines ... shows first route making which aborted because of constant falling seracs then tried to reach 6300m peak with plan to descend its ridge to Ganesh III's East Ridge (solid line route on photo)

1st * Point 6300m is between Ganesh III (left)
= prov. C1 - 5300m
2nd = final C1 - 5650m
x = high point of 6000-6100m below ice nose on Peak 6300m horizon
reached on 16 Oct

Turned back because ice too brittle to hold ice screws and else where there was deep snow made BC 30 Sept and final C1 on 10 Sept

Molinari leaves Nepal in Feb - March 81 for another overseas post-permanent.


Molinari - 4 Nov 80

Not successful. Reached 6000-6100m; difficult to find route. 1st attempt, all vertical rock face; route to peak between Ganesh III and Ganesh V and behind this peak about 6300m down 200m or so and up 1000m East Ridge.

Not sure from BC whether could actually get to top via ridge which had very bad rotten ice conditions.

Other route possibility threatened by deep-snow avalanche.
Tried final route SE Face to East Ridge between Ganesh III and V.

BC 30 Sept 4650m
C1 10 Oct 5650m East Ridge to broad peak
No C2
High point 16 Oct by all 4 Swiss
All well and all Swiss arrive KTM
2 days ago - Nepal members reluctant to leave BC and left earlier.


Molinari - 17 Sept 80

All others members arrived KTM 15 Sept. Expedition with Dutli and Molinari wives, leave KTM in two groups, 1st one with porters by truck to Trisuli Bazaar on 21 Sept and 2nd one probably including Molinari, on 23rd to 25th Sept.

Wives to be included as members of expedition, but they are not climbers and will go only to BC.


Molinari - 17 Aug 80

Route = SE Face from Glacier south of SE Ridge (new route)
Nepalese say Sangeng Glacier is now in Tibet
6 members = 4 Swiss and 2 Nepalese
Leave KTM 20 Sept (Molinari returned to KTM 12 Sept)
2 came from Switzerland (1 was on Numbur)

To Trisuli Bazaar by road, thence to Salme, Bhairabkot, Tiru Danda, Mailung Pati. Will take 4 days to BC (loads will have gone to BC via Trisuli River to Syabrubesi, Thangjet, Chilimegaon, Jagesar Kund).

BC at about 4500m on glacier south of SE Ridge.

Probably then up S Ridge or SE Ridge to SE Face. Don't know exact route try to go straight up if weather and difficulties on mountain permit. So 3 or 4 bivouacs; no fixed camps expected.

No H-A porters on climb.
2 Sherpas members
No oxygen for medical