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Schell - 4 Nov 80

Highest point 7300m on 14th Oct and abandoned attempt on 19th; had been to C2 on 17th but wind too much and gave up hope. Last camp destroyed by ice avalanche; found this when went up to clear mountain on 21 Oct. Czech's camp also destroyed.

C3 placed at 6500m on 5th Oct and moved up to 6800m on 11 Oct. High point reached 14 Oct by 3 Sherpas and Gruber, Hub, Kruettner and Schell; planned that day to put C4 at 7500-7600m and next day to summit.

Czechs came direct to North Face and Austrians agreed they could climb together; they reached 6900m.


Goeschl & Gruber - 27 Oct 80

Gruber and Goeschel arrived KTM yesterday via Pokhara and Larkya La; left BC 18 Oct, Had snow fall nearly every day. Problem in higher camps and very strong winds from west.

C2 at 5800m
C3 nearly 7000-6800m on 8 or 9 Oct near North Col and 7400m on way to C4 reached.

Others in expedition were still trying and possibly reached summit but doubtful because of wind. Were to BC 26 or 27 Oct. No accidents.

Tried on 11th on 12th and again on 14th to make C4 and go on up to summit but terrible winds defeated this. Hanns, Gruber and 2 Sherpas on 1st try reached 7250m. Hanns Schell, Dr. Kruettner, Karl Hub, Gruber and 2 Sherpas on 2nd attempt reached 7400m.

C4 was to be about 7500m or 7600m.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 80

Abandoned climb due bad weather; too cold and high wind. On 19 Oct reached 7390m. 14 Oct by Hanns Schell and others member and 1 Sherpa. Leave BC 22 Oct.

BC 20 Sept 3850m
C1 22 Sept 4930m
C2 27 Sept 5800m


Schell and Gruber - 4 Sept 80

5 more members arrive KTM 13 Sept
Schell and Gruber leave KTM 7 Sept with baggage and Sherpas
Establish BC about 20 Sept.
Route = NE Face (standard route)
Karl Hub excellent skier, hopes to ski down
BC at 4800-4900m - standard C1
C1 5800m just below small icefall
C2 6800m near North Col
Dump/biv 7300m on plateau
C3 7650m
Summit 15 Oct
3 Sherpas above BC; hope all will reach summit
One is Ang Jangbu who climbed Everest 2/20/79
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping