원정 개요

Dr. Pfefferle - 31 Oct 80

Arrive BC after 9 days trek so BC at 4000m 29 Sept.

C1 5400m
C2 6700m - 12 Oct
Summit - 15 Oct 4 pm by Rieben & Temba

15 Oct very windy; started 7:00 am and on top 4 pm; too windy to sleep on ridge and must go to C3 very tired but successful at 11 pm.

Route to left of Indian route; went very close to East Ridge East Summit (about 6900m).

East Summit climbed by Bertholet, Gaillard and Polli on 17 Oct (1st ascent).

17 Oct winds too strong to continue. Had to evacuate III because snow soft powder and changing with wind. BC to C1 fixed rope. Most difficult climb was summit ridge and very sharp hard snow and ice. Slow ascent on 15th because very long ridge, strong wind and much snow. Tempa had little frostbite on arrival BC 16th.

No accident or serious illness.

Technically not so difficult, but physically difficult because long and windy & very cold and at altitude says summiter.

6 members in KTM; leader after 3 weeks trek via Kali Gandaki.


Shailendra Sharma Tourism - 22 Oct 80

East Ridge route.

Summit reached 15 Oct by
1) Jean-Pierre Rieben, 1947, mountain guide
2) Temba Sherpa, 28

Started from C3 (6550m established 3 Oct ) at 7:00 am and on top 4 pm; 5 mins on top and returned to BC 11 pm on 16th Oct. All well.


Bertholet - 16 Sept 80

New route on North Face; not Indian route or, he thinks Australian. Will use ridge as much as possible rather than gullies since ridges less dangerous. Australians accident was bad luck. Will probably be to East Ridge but will have to see when get to mountain.

Leave 19 Sept by road to Dumre and thence Marshyandgi Khola to Braga.
BC at about 4200-4300m; 10 days to BC.
Max 3 camps above BC and 1 biv perhaps 2 bivs.
1 Sherpa above BC, Temba
Oxygen medical only
Summit about 20 Oct

If go over to East Ridge, will go up alpine style (no fixed ropes) and down other route.

Hope getting everyone to top.