원정 개요

Fischer - 27 Oct 80

Schlim never joined in the climbing, just escorted LO to BC and said hello, then went off to Pheriche and HRA aid post.

No sign of French bodies, not even fixed ropes found.


Fischer - 28 Oct 80

Head wall = wall above
Imja Glacier to North Col

Climbed 4/5th of way to North Summit via North Ridge (not main summit because Johnson and Collins had left expedition about 25 Sept; didn't even try climbing above BC because didn't like look of headwall).

After about 25 Sept on mountain Fischer, Hackett, Jensen and Wiltsie. Hackett got tired and sick 6 Oct and down to BC; out of action five days. Then all four climbers went up and got as high as 100m below North Summit on 17th Oct. Turned back in very cold and strong wind. Jensen and Hackett's toes because numb (and still are numb).


Hackett - 9 Aug 80

Route probably same as French 1980, i.e., North Ridge from west side (but perhaps from east side). To get to North Col to go to North Ridge taking skis and hope to ski down North Ridge, from North summit 7057m to Col at 6190m.

Sherpa climbing course of 37 Sherpas on Ama Dablam from Mingbo before Baruntse, so will approach from West almost certainly.

Leave 15 Aug to Lamosangu arrive Mingbo 1st week Sept; course taught 5-25 Sept.

BC 27 Sept at about 17,000 feet on Imja Glacier.
Probably a well-stocked camp on col north of Baruntse at 6180m.
No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen.
Pasang Kami = sirdar for Sherpa climbing course.
Tsering Wangchu = BC sirdar.