원정 개요

Otsuka - 4 Oct 80

BC 3 Sept 4200m
C1 7 Sept 4900m
C2 15 Sept 5600m
C3 2 Oct 6100m
C4 14 Oct 6700m
Summit 26 Oct by all 6 members.

On 16, 18, 25 and 26 Oct expedition made and summit attacks. 1st 3 attacks were not successful, but on 25 Oct biv at 7100m and 4th attack at night.

16 Oct very big wind
18 Oct very big wind
25 Oct 3 members route making take long time. Stayed biv at 7100m

26th - 3 members from C4 went to biv site and together all 6 to top; left C4 at 2:00 am, reached biv site 6:30 am; all left biv 7:30 am and arrived summit 9:20 am; 1/2 hour on summit in very clear but cold and windy weather; arrived C3 3:00 pm and stayed there that night.
Climbed South Ridge, new route; difficult ice ridge with same rock face, all very steep.

No accidents, no frostbite.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 30 Oct 80

Summit from South Ridge 26 Oct all 6 members; from highest camp started 6:30 am and on top 9:20 am without oxygen. All well.


Langtang - 24 Aug 80

Leave KTM 27 or 28 Aug, approach via Trisuli Bazaar, Trisuli River, Langtang Khola to Langtang Glacier southeast of mountain; 7 days caravan.

Route = South Ridge, same on 1964 Japanese expedition (which reached only 5300m) and 1971 which also tried East Ridge.

3 Sept climbing start
BC 4200m at bottom of glacier
C1 about 4500m
C2 5300m on ridge
C3 6000m on ridge
C4 6700m on ridge
Maybe biv between C4 and top
Summit 15 Oct
Most difficult between C2 and C3 in very steep mixed rock and ice
No Sherpas above BC
No oxygen for climbing; only 2 bottles for medical use