원정 개요

Ichihashi - 27 Oct 80

C3 made 5 Oct at only 6100m, almost same altitude as C2. Highest point about 6400m reached on 15 Oct by Ozaki and Otsubo. Went to point 6333m which is really 6100m high and 300m above and 2 km farther along very difficult rock ridge. Above point 6400m was 200m rock face and at attack time for this face, 18-20 Oct, bad weather: cloud and most members too tired to continue. Tents at all camps torn by wind and snow.

Route is possible but half members sick or tired or have business in Japan climbing with half power. Of 18 climbing members only 3 attacking mountain other at end members will come KTM about 31 Oct.

No accidents or frostbite
5000m fixed rope; all route fixed roped from BC to top of route.
No other peaks attempted


Ichihashi - 7 Aug 80

Approach from Beding, up Jomoi Gul Chhu Valley to BC at about 4800m at point west of "N" in Schneider map of Rolwaling to Pt 6333m where put C2 and thence on SE Ridge to South Face for part of climb (face 200m). 3 days climbing at 6500m to 6700m to South Peak 7000m where then down north of South Peak put C4 to 6700m, then to Main Peak. C4 final camp.

Today last party leaves KTM, arrive Beding after 10-12 days, reaching BC after 2 more days, dumping baggage, then climbing members help make bridges.

14 Japanese climbing members and 3 Nepalese climbing;
rest of members involved in bridge building.
Ichihashi led recce in Nov 79 to BC.
3 Sherpas and 3 Nepalese members above BC; Shambu Tamang = Nepalese Leader
Oxygen medical only
Summit about 5 Oct


Poudyal Yeti Mountain - 7 Aug 80

Nepalese climbing members
1) Shambu Tamang, 27 yrs old, Sindupulchowk, Lisanku village
climbed Everest 5/5/93

2) Pasang Kaji Lama, 35 yrs old, Salleri
was with 1970 Japanese Everest expedition

3) Ang Phuri Lama, 28 yrs old, Beni
1979 Lhotse Polish expedition (over 8000m)