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Nobuyasu & Nagashima - 14 Oct 80

Climbed South Ridge, same route as New Zealand 1954.
No frostbite, accident or serious illness.
Good weather
Pinnacle above C4 difficult; sharp snow ridge from C4 to top.
26 Sept left C4 1:30 am and arrived summit 11:30 am.
No trace of dead French.
Actually 3 people reached summit on 27 Sept; Nawang Yunde Sherpa went with 2 Japanese.

Camps established as follows:
BC - 5000m 1 Sept
C1 - 5150m 7 Sept
C2 - 5750m 12 Sept
C3 - 6150m 23 Sept


Saito & Oba - 16 Aug 80

Route = South Ridge (same as 1954 New Zealand)
See plate 38 in Galfy's Makalu (their ridge from summit in right of pix down
to left central).
Approach via Sherpani Col.
All members in Nepal; 2 on way via Dharan with 85 porters and 3 Sherpas, etc.
6 in KTM leave Monday by scheduled flight to Tumlingtar and meet walkers
at Tumlingtar.
BC at about 5000m in Makalu BC area near Barun Pokhari; route thence to Sherpani
Col, then to South Ridge above West Col.
4 camps above BC:
C1 on Barun Glacier northeast of Sherpani Col at about 5300m
C3 at 6500m just below South Ridge and north of West Col.
C4 at 7000m on Ridge.
Last 200m very difficult hence need for camp at 7000m; snow ridge badly corniced.
3 Sherpas above BC - sirdar = Pasang Norbu
Oxygen meical only
Arrive BC 5 Sept
Summit 3-5 Oct (3rd = Oba's birthday)