Miyazaki University Alpine Club Himalaya Expedition to Tukuche
Tukuche · 1980 · 가을 (3) · Japan
원정 개요
Tori - 13 Oct 80
Almost 2 weeks from BC to C1 because of difficult icefall with 900m fixed rope and because bad weather. Went to summit on 28 Sept in 3 groups: 1st group on top 11:30 am, 2nd group at 11:45 am and 3rd group at noon.
Left C2 5:15 am and returned to C2 at 3:00-6:00 pm. Sherpas to C1 6:00 pm.
Ang Temba little frostbite. No accident or illness.
Climbed SW Ridge. 1st ascent this route.
Kondo & Ikada - 19 Aug 80
Leave 22 Aug for Pokhara by road. 6 members now in KTM and 1 today to Pokhara to hire porters. All leave Pokhara 23 Aug with 40 Porters. Arrive BC after 7 days to Tukuche
village and 10 days then French Pass.
BC north of NE Col at 4500m
Route = SW Ridge from NE Col on Japan Dhaulagiri map
3 camps above BC
C2 at NE Col 5877m
C3 at point 6690m
3 weeks climbing = summit about 1 Oct
4 Sherpas above BC; sirdar = Ringi
No oxygen at all.
- 내부 원정 ID1882
- 원본 EXPIDTUKU80301
- 대장Tatuo Morimoto
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6920m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 11명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tatuo Morimoto | Japan | Leader (until BC) | - | - | - |
| Shuichi Torii | Japan | Climbing Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Akira Baba | Japan | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Masato Ikeda | Japan | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Shigenori Kamio | Japan | Exp Doctor | 성공 | - | - |
| Yoshio Kondo | Japan | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Akira Nakahara | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Takayuki Ushigima | Japan | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Kusang Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Ringi Sherpa | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | - |