원정 개요

BC at 4600m next to Italians (not intended site because of fresh
deep snow where yaks couldn't go)
ABC at 5300m south of point 5705m
C1 at 5600m on S Ridge at start of steep section
Biv 1 at 5800m on ridge
Biv 2 at 6000m on ridge
Biv 3 at 6300m on ridge
Biv 4 at 6500m in icefall on South Face (now joined standard route).

No tent sites above C1 because narrow ice ridge. To Biv1 spent 4 days fixing rope from C1 and 3 days fixing rope from Biv1 to Biv2. At Biv1 Kurtz was with 3 summiters but 2 Nov complained of shoulder pain and went down. technical difficulties same as on standard route but less rock and more exposed cornices, more snow.

Pete Athans on 25 Oct joined Italian-French, etc group and went to their C1 that day under agreement where by if he joined fixing rope he could go to top with them. Aprin thinks he thought S Ridge might be too difficult a route to be sure to get to summit that way.

No accidents except Kurtz's pulled shoulder muscle and some members illness from stream polluted by Italians carelessness.

[Ridge running south from summit, east of standard route SW Ridge and of S Face, says Pete Athans 26 May 1994]


Pete Athans - 20 Dec 85

Athans went to summit of Ama Dablam on 2 Nov. Had gone over to Italian/French party because they needed help to get fixed ropes in place for client climbers; had intended to rejoin Aprin and team, but time was running out (he had to join Roger Marshall's group for Cho Oyu in winter), so did not go back to American expedition.