원정 개요

Sugawara & Toya - 29 Oct 80

Hamada, Sugawara and Mizoguchi reached top on 21 Oct 4:00 pm. Started from C3 at 8:00 am, 20 mins on top in very strong wind. That nights bivouac at 7000m in snowholes. Reached on 22 Oct C3 at 9:00 am and BC at 4:00 pm same day.

Sugawara some frozen toes but will be Ok. Very difficult climb and bad weather. Took long because snow deep and soft, cold temperature and wind.

Normal route = South Ridge. Later in Oct on summit than leader planned because snow ridge and snow face in bad condition. Needed 2200m fixed rope. From C2 to C3 very difficult snow ridge, snow face, rock face to snow ridge.

1st attack by 4 members on 19th Oct by Iwazoe, Toya, Koga and Mizoguchi. Very strong wind reached 7000m biv point (snowhole on snow face) of 21 Oct and stayed there night of 18th Oct.

20 Oct 2nd attack by Iwazoe, Koga and Mizoguchi; up only 4 pitches to 7100m; again strong winds and returned to C3.

21 Oct new team to top and down to biv.

All members came to KTM and all Ok. Leave Nepal after 1 week.
No accidents or avalanche and only 1 with frostbite
No oxygen used; no other mountains [climbed]


Yasao Iwazoe - 13 Aug 80

All in KTM. 1st party arrived 1 Aug and 2nd party 8 Aug
Leave KTM 18 Aug by road to Lamosangu, arrive BC after 14 days.
2 weeks acclimatization climbing from BC.
Route = SW Ridge, same as 1978 Japan expedition.
Pumori very famous mountain and our purpose all members get to top with no Sherpas.
No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen.
BC at 5200m above due west of point 5527m on Schneider map.
C1 5800m
C2 6200m
C3 6500m
Dump 6800m
Most difficult part from C2 to dump, saw-tooth ridge, some blue ice, some rock.
Summit 8-14 Oct - hope all members summit.
GAC Pumori Expedition
(G Ascent Club - G = Giant peaks)