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Neuchatel Expedition to Sisne Himal 1980

Kande Hiunchuli North I · 1980 · 봄 (1) · Switzerland

원정 개요

Ruedi Meier - 6 March 85

Meier agrees with British 1984 that Swiss in spring 1980 were not on Sisne, which is west of Chaudhabise Khola, but on a Kande Hiunchuli peak and reached Kande Hiunchuli North Peak II.


Meier - 18 May 80

Left Surkhet 21 March and arrived in Jumla 2 April; left Jumla 4 April and in BC 11 April in Chaudhabise Khola at point 16,700 ft.

BC 4060m, 11 April

Went through pass east of point 16,700 ft and to Shangde Khola.

C1 just before pass at 4800m 12 April.
C2 = ABC - 4250m in Shangde Khola at foot of glacier on 13 April.
C3 at foot of NW Ridge of Sisne at 5190m on 15 April.

Sisne = 3 peaks, highest is S Peak 21,720ft
NW Ridge leads to N Peak (21,230 ft)

Could not go to main summit: 2 weeks more from this side; very sharp, sawtooth ridge; would have go down Jagdula Khola side and up a pillar and put 400m fixed ropes and 1 or 2 more camps.

Also climbed same small peaks not on map from C3, highest 5700m.

No accident illness or frostbite.

Used H-A porters for stocking high camps:


H-A porters from photo in "Sisne Himal 1980":
Ram Chandra
Dorje
Pemba Lama (sirdar)
Unghele
Jetta

  • 내부 원정 ID1877
  • 원본 EXPIDKAN180101
  • 대장Ruedi Meier
  • 루트 (Route)NW Ridge of Kande HN II
  • 최고 도달고도6150m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Rudolf (Ruedi) MeierSwitzerlandLeader---
Jean-Claude ChautemsSwitzerlandClimber---
Daniel ChevallierSwitzerlandClimber---
Andre EggerSwitzerlandClimber---
Pierre GallandSwitzerlandClimber---
Andre MeillardSwitzerlandClimber---
Gilbert VillardSwitzerlandExp Doctor---

출처·참고문헌

Swiss Sisne Himal Expedition 1980Meier, Ruedi · 1980 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
Meier, Ruedi · 1980 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Sisne Himal 1980, Expedition NeuchateloiseGalland, Pierre & Chevallier, Daniel · 1980 · 보고서·브로슈어 (4) ·
Expedition report
· 1980 · 잡지 (3) · MM
· 1980 · 학술지·저널 (2) · DAV
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198127202/Asia-Nepal-Sisne-North-Peak-Kanjiroba-Himal · 1980 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/10/swiss-sisne-himal-expedition-1980/ · 1980 · 웹사이트 (5) ·