원정 개요

Oh In-Hwan - 17 Oct 80

South Face: all rock, very difficult, overhang, dangerous
C2 on 3 Oct 5400-5500m
C3 at 6200m wanted to make but could not.

Reached 6200m as highest point on 6 Oct. Stopped climb because have no more time, route very difficult, one member sick and eye affected by altitude. Need more young members and 2 was on or at bottom of mountain.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80

Nilgiri North abandoned 10 Oct because of shortage of time - no other information. Only 3 members.

C2 established 3 Oct; don't know if C3 pitched.


Oh - 8 Sept 80

Arrive KTM 7th.
Leave Pokhara 12th Sept, arrive BC 22 Sept.
BC = 4300m
3 camps above BC; C3 = 6500m
Summit 3 Oct
Route = SE Face, same as 1979 Japanese.
2 Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, none at all
Last part of mountain is 600-700m steep rock wall.
Kim is expert in rock climbing.
Team is small: 3 members, so peak Nilgiri N is very challenging.