원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

This expedition's route was the NE Ridge; it was east of North Ridge followed by German expedition in autumn 1981, according to Herman Warth.

Ganesh II - S Ridge

BC 3650m - 13th Sept
C1 4600m - 28th Sept
C2 5400m - 4th Oct
Highest point 5600m - 9th Oct

3 members killed by avalanche 9th Oct.


Nitta - 21 Oct 80

2 weeks searching route before making C1. Climbing started 22 Sept. BC at Toro Gompa glacier of a small N Ridge.

Tried climb small N Ridge and C2 was on small plateau on this ridge; very easy route, climbing members say.

3 members last were at 5600m on big plateau on small N Ridge; above C2 60m icefall. 4 members were here on 9th Oct above icefall, which was fixed; roped and making route to C3.

Snow avalanche came from above small N Ridge and hit all 4 men. After avalanche 3 members missing and Murase not injured: he was not in direct line of avalanche at moment it hit.

This only avalanche; route is safe, climbers think, but pre-monsoon perhaps too much snow.


L.O. DP - 16 Oct 80

Leader and 2 members arrived today on helicopter. 3 missing men are dead. Searched for days and not found C2 5600m just below camp and hit. Climbing abandoned.

Others arrive 15 days later.


Imai - 23 Aug 80 (with help in English from Nitta)

Expedition had permit for Ganesh I to climb via Sangeng (Sangjung) Glacier, but now border runs south of glacier so this approach not permitted, so original route of S Ridge not possible and ministry proposed Toro Gompa Glacier approach.

But this latter approach means SW Face which is very difficult.
Big avalanching rock face of 4000m height which is impossible to climb.

So expedition proposed Ganesh III from Toro Gompa Glacier to east face of N Ridge to summit, new route.

If ministry gives written Ok tomorrow, 3 members, and 10 porters leave Kathmandu 26th Aug and others leave 28th Aug.

Caravan 13 days to BC at glacier from Buri Gandaki
BC 3800m at bottom (NW) end of glacier.
4 or 5 camps above BC with last camp at 6500m.
Face of ridge may offer no camp site and may be only biv.
Face of ridge is missed ice and snow with 600m icewall and steep rock
5 Sherpas above BC including 2 members of expedition; sirdar is Zangbu Sherpa.
Oxygen medical only.
BC about 10 Sept.
Summit 20 Oct; time to find route, maybe changing approach to Ridge.