원정 개요

Teranishi - 25 Nov 80

BC on west shore of lake east of Duwo village.
BC at 4700m on 1 Oct. Temp C1 snowhole at about 5300m not much used;
used about 2 weeks, made on 10 Oct.
Next camp at 5900m = C1 on 23 Oct
Attack camp 1 Nov at 6300m on snow plateau.

Route = North Face (new route), not French or British route
Climbing route from BC south of lake and up west side of Duwa Glacier.

Face not difficult but dangerous for 3 weeks in Oct. Most days couldn't climb because snow slabs and icefall. Fine weather 20 Oct onwards.

Fukushima fell with snow 100m on 6 Oct and had to go to Pheriche "hospital" for recovery; Kato hit by ice serac and 2 weeks to recover.

7 Nov 1st summit attempt almost reached top but very strong wind. Tomita and Fukushima forced down but next day went again up and made summit on 8 Nov. Followed on 9th by Tsuboi and Kato and on 10th by Ogawa and Teranishi.

Teranishi, Fukushima and Tsuboi now in KTM. Others in Khumbu and have Kusum Kangru permit to Dec 4.


Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 18 Nov 80

Success via North Face (1st North Face ascent)

Fukushima 8 Nov
Tomita 8 Nov
Tsuboi 9 Nov
Kato 9 Nov (leader)
Ogawa 10 Nov
Teranishi 10 Nov

From C2 but details not know left BC 15 Nov. All are well.


Kato - 17 Aug 80

North Face or NW Face. After reaching mountain will decide which route. North face is probably impossible; both new routes. New Zealand route is between these routes.

BC north of Ama Dablam at 4500m; only one camp above BC: no sites above BC except at above 6000m.

Leave KTM 15 Sept to Lukla and arrive BC 5-10 Oct. Thyangboche for 2 weeks acclimatization before BC; two to four weeks climbing [actually left KTM on foot on 16 Sept, no Lukla flights].

No Sherpas above BC
Medical oxygen only