원정 개요

Michael Stead - 15 May 80

4 arrived in KTM 10 May; others arrive end of May.

C1 about 13,500 ft on 13 April on shoulder beside glacier west of point 17,456 ft on Harka Gurung map.

C2 about 16,500 ft on 19 April on a shoulder east of the glacier.

C3 never established; went up to recce its sites at about 18,500 ft but ridge face very steep with extremely hard ice. Reached this point which was highest point expedition reached on 2 May. Groves and Marjot decided then to call attempt off.

Quite technical ice climbing and physically hard ice and had no suitable tent for this. Also weather deteriorated with snow by late morning.

This route will be climbed but not easy; needs more equipment and better tents than we had. No accidents, etc. No other peaks.

Got roughly to some point as 1964 Japanese; same route which only feasible route on that face.


Searle - 28 March 80

Leave KTM 2 or 3 April by bus to Trisuli Bazaar on foot from KTM.
7 days expedition Trisuli to BC.
Route = South Face (new route); maybe same features as Japanese 1964 but will
have look from Ganga La at avalanche patterns for safest route.
BC at about 13,000-14,000 feet just above Langtang village.
Most difficult: 1st 2000-3000 ft of rock
Will put 2 camps on rock with higher one at 3,000 feet and then alpine-style
climb with snowholes.
Sirdar Serki Tsering will go above BC
Arrive BC about 10 April.
One week acclimatizing, 4 weeks climbing, summit mid-May
No oxygen