원정 개요

Gene & Jim White - 20 May 80

Had 4 camps, C4 at about 6400m. Warburton woke up unable to talk, etc about 8 May. Sent Mrs White down for help from lower camps which came up same day. Took him down on 9th for 2 days to C1 where met Makalu I expedition by radio and Makalu I sent over oxygen which helped his recovery from cerebral edema. Could have been complicated by brain damage in USSR.

8 days carrying him to Tumlingtar; has badly swollen legs and pain in both and cannot walk.

BC 16,500 ft 27 April
C1 17,500 ft 30 April (where US Makalu I have BC)
C2 18,500 ft 2 May
C3 20,000 ft 4 May glacier
C4 21,000 ft 6 May on Chago Glacier west of North Col

South Ridge starts at 24,000 ft so not yet on ridge. Had 4 in C4: 3 Whites and Warburton.

Doctor left expedition 30 April saying she had cerebral edema; her boyfriend left with her (Tileston). Armando Menocol never went above C2 because didn't acclimatize.


Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 18 May 80

Abandoned 11 May after 6300m, bad weather.


Menocal & Gene White - 15 April 80

Fly to Tumlingtar tomorrow; 9-11 days to BC at about 5200m.
From BC to Chago Glacier to Makalu La.
Route = South Ridge
About 4 camps above BC just below Col 23,400 feet
300 feet just below Col is gentle rock and way need fixed rope; that's
only different part.
20 days at most on mountain; all have commitments back home, i.e., jobs, etc.

No oxygen.
No Sherpas above BC probably.
Sirdar Pasang Dorje Lama might be carrying loads to C1.