원정 개요

Deacock - 15 April 80

Maximum altitude reached = 17,500 feet by one of 3 recce groups searching best route, reached on 25 March; their part of mountain was also avalanching and this route not used again.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 April 80

Deacock: Snowing 30 March climbers descending from C1 when snow avalanche carried 3 away. Remaining 4 searched but to no avail. Message was run to BC and remainder of climbers ascended to site and after systematic probing, the final body was discovered at 4:40 pm. Dr. Brian Fearnley (47) medical practitioner Christchurch, New Zealand and Dr. Kenneth Bowes performed last rites for bodies. These were then carried up to grave situated splendidly at 14,000 feet. A simple burial service was held. Later a headstone was placed on their graves.

Bowes said C1 16,500 ft on 28 March established by Morse, Reeves, Blake and Bowes.

On 29 March Jonathan Chester, Richard Schmidt and another member [Bartram] joined the 4 at C1.

7 sleeping in 3 tents 29/30. At about 9:30 pm, 2 tents were swept away by avalanches. 4 including Dr. Bowes were swept away in those 2 tents, but all safe and all in one tent next day they decided to descend.

Bowes said to Ranjan Gupta four actually hit by avalanche but one (whose name not given) got out.

Deacock after 3-4 days


Al Read - 7 April 80

McDowell, Blake, LO + Sherpas leave Chame 6-7th, arrive KTM 10th or 11th or even later.

Note from Warwick dated 2 April:
8 others via Thorang La
Funeral April 1
29 March 7 climbers at C1.

Avalanche destroyed camp that night, climbers salvaged tent and sat in it all night. On 30th they retreated toward BC but at about 14,000 ft an avalanche carried 3 men away. Remainder attempted to dig for them. All climbers went up and found the bodies that afternoon. Next day 31 March mountain too dangerous for movement.

Expedition abandoned on 1 April still is dangerous condition.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 April 80

3 members Australian Annapurna III died instantly in an avalanche 30 March and expedition abandoned:

1) Stafford James Morse
27, farmhand
Inverall, NSW

2) Nicholas David Reeves
27, barrister
Camberwell

3) Richard John Schmidt
35, training officer
Wellington, NZ
(Australian)

"All others are Ok"

Message from Deacock; no altitude given.
BC - 17 March 3700m.
Expected established C1 5550m very soon in message received 31 March in Ministry.


Deacock, Monteath and Co. - 5 March 80

Leave Dumre 7th - 12 days to BC.
Have equipment for 5 camps but may not need 5 camps - almost certainly 4 camps.

Expedition will need 2 weeks to acclimatize and recce route which may be Indians 1961 route or same other on North Face.

"Being a climber in Australia is a bit like being a sailor in Nepal".

"Indian route very easy technically so no reason why all shouldn't get to top", if use that route, says Monteath.

Problem to find safest route through series of icefalls and staying away from ice cliffs below 20,000 feet.

Some problem from deep snow on North Shelf at 20,000-21,500 feet; have snow shoes for this; will almost certainly be crossing this shelf whatever route chosen - Monteath.

6 weeks on the mountain - Monteath.

1st all Australian expeditions this year. Gaurishankar expedition's route definitely more difficult; we have technical experience, but now to get altitude experience (none of us much above 20,000 feet before).


Deacock & Monteath - 3 March 80

Leave 6th March to Dumre by road, thence up Marshyangdi to Braga.
Route = north side of mountain, which includes a number of ribs, faces, etc.

Will decide precise route when see mountain; don't know exactly where Indians went, so may well be variation.

About 130 porters Dumre - BC in 15 days.
BC at about 16,000 feet - up to 5 camps above BC, which is at fairly low altitude.

1 Sherpa above, sirdar Pasang Ongchu of Namche (was with Americans Nepal 1979 Gaurishankar).
3 weeks acclimatization and moving loads up and establishing camps.
Summit late April; leave Nepal 1st June.
Oxygen medical only

Doctors:
Bowes leaves 3 April.
Fearnley arrives 27 March with 1st trekking group.