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Agnew, Bridges and Simkins

Route = South Face of Api. Route was on south side of mountain along a ridge to a pyramid in front of main mountain and from top of pyramid 400m to actual face and thence up center of face.

Top of pyramid = 20,400 feet where had C3 (established 21 April).
C2 at 18,500 ft was 2/3 up ridge in distance (established 16 April).
C1 at 16,700 ft at beginning of ridge, which was start of climb.
C4 at 21,800 ft on upper of 2 hanging glaciers (established on 29 April) = single tent = assault base = under hanging serac over which powder snow. Available went safely by Arthy and Bridges occupied.

C4 on 29th. On 30th stayed in camp. At midnight 30 April/1 May began summit bid. Wind apparently disturbing snow high on face because almost constant deluge of snow avalanches. Traversed slightly to rib where snow became very heavy snow coming down on both sides roaring down with spindrift. Went on up hard ice rib with frostbiting till 10:00 am when ran out of strength at about 23,000 ft. Then just exhausted took 6 hours down to C4 and 1 more hour to dig camp out of snow fall (avalanches stopped with daylight when wind eased off).

1 May was one fine day in 3 weeks so no afternoon avalanches, otherwise I very much doubt we would have got back. John Arthy fell 150 feet in series of slides and falls as it was from top of 310m glacier; unhurt but fingers freezing. 2 May Arthy had to be escorted down to C3. 2nd May Arthy, Simkins and Walsh took over C4 and had second try during night of 2nd/3rd May started 10 pm. Got to bottom; where at top ridge of glacier C4 located of bergschrund at midnight and onto face proper. At 1:00 am weather broke with thunder and lightning and got avalanched and retreated to bergschrund till 3:00 am. Then too late for onward progress and went back to C4 at 4:30 am then down to lower camps.

3rd May - that was end of climbing effort. Left BC 7 May.

Route is viable but were plagued by bad weather, soft dangerous snow and avalanches.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 14 May 80

Abandoned C4 23 April 6575m, then route difficult and weather bad stopped on 3 May. Leave BC 7 May. All well except 1 little frostbite.


Agnew - 10 Feb 80

10 now in KTM, 2 more later about 20 Feb, all leave KTM together by road about 24-25 Feb or so; 150-200 porter loads including porters food in food-deposit area.

Arrive BC about last week March (4 days drive and 2 weeks walk). After acclimatization start climb early April and summit bid early May.

Route: have a look at rib up South Face but little information on it. 1971 Japanese had look and went to West Ridge, so went to East Col and East Ridge as did 1978 Italians.

Photos of rib on South Face looks reasonable high up but question of how to get well on to it.

BC at head of Chamlia Khola south-southeast of Api about 14,000 feet; then ABC at foot of mountain about 15,000-16,000 feet.

Would like to do rib alpine-style but maybe necessary put 2 or 3 camps on ridge
and face top point from which can move quickly.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping - medical only.
No Sherpas above BC, Sirdar Ang Tsering at BC only.
AMA Api Expedition 1980.
All British