원정 개요

BC established at 5500m between Tilicho Lake and North Ridge 22 April. Second party arrived there 23 April. Tried summit 1 May.

No real higher camps. Found Japanese fixed ropes which refixed and used them up to 6000m. Wanted to make C1 at about 6000m. Took 3 days to repair Japanese routes and doing this 1 Sherpa cut his finger and could no longer climb.

1 climbing member Zurbriggen got serious altitude sickness and had to be taken down on way to Jomsom; doctor went with him towards Jomsom.

2:00 am 1 May Biel and Lohmatter and 3 Sherpas started from BC to go to top. Reached 6000m where had supplies at 11:00 am. Only 1 Sherpa to be used for this ascent, so sent back all 3 and then 2 members up to see route above. Reached 6100m maximum altitude. Then heavy thunderstorm so descended and gave up attempt. Only 2 climbing members now on mountain and Sherpas useless. Also too dangerous to go on. Were on North Ridge = Japanese route.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 80

Abandoned after 6250m on 1 May because bad weather.


Dr Biel - 3 April 80

2 here now, rest arrive 14th. Biel leaves Saturday/Sunday and walk to Manang from Dumre while rest fly to Jomsom.

BC between Tilicho Lake and North Ridge
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Route = North Ridge. Probably same as Japanese spring 1979. Hasn't seen ridge from last expedition. Biel was on Tilicho North Ridge in 1972 from west side. Was with Swiss guide and 2 locals and reached 6000m just at beginning of ridge. Was May and much snow and avalanching.

Biel makes BC at about 5500m. Goes with 20 porters and reaches BC about 15 April. Others fly to Jomsom 17th and cross Thorung La. At BC 21st April.

1 camp above BC on ridge at about 6500m above 2 small ice ridges which are difficult part of route. Perhaps only 1 Sherpa above BC, but here 4 total. Don't count on others who are Tamangs going above BC. Above BC definitely will be sirdar Ang Kami who has been with Swiss before.

Oxygen medical only.

1 week, or 2 weeks at most to summit from BC. On summit by beginning of May latest.
Joint German-Swiss Expedition to Mt. Tilicho.