원정 개요

Mayerl - 29 May 80

Route was West Ridge from South approached via Ghaleti Khola to point south of ridge halfway between point 18,600 and Fang on Harka Gurung map. Not so long this way to get mountain and straight up from BC to ridge; wall very steep: from BC to C2 2800m fixed.

C2 = 1st camp on ridge above C2. 1200m fixed rope.
No accidents, not much frostbite.
South face of ridge is rock climb, no avalanching there.
No oxygen for climbing.
C1 to C2 some difficulty as Matterhorn North Face: 70 degrees and steepness
first 300-400m
C4 = 7040m on 16 May


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 May 80

Permitted South Face to C4 and West Face to summit
17 May summit by
1) Hermann Neumair, 1951, Lienz, carpenter
2) Josef Mayerl
3) Ang Chopal, 33, Kharikhola
Flags of Nepal and Austria and club on top took photos in clear weather and -20 degree
Climbed from West Face
On top 16:00 to 16:30

Started climb at 5:00 on 16 May; bad weather and had to fix rope to 6500m, so delayed in climb and made emergency biv at 7040m 16 May for that night; next day 17 May started again 3:00 am and returned to biv with battery lights at 22:00 hours.

Health good.
Because fixed rope from BC to 6500m and route very hazardous and difficult, others
will not try for top.
23 May were to leave BC for KTM.


Mueller-Esterl, Annapurna I expedition - 17 May 80

Fang expedition going well; have put in all camps and waiting for good weather.
(one member [Dr. Bahner] left expedition a week ago with injured finger).


Mayrl - 1 April 80

Route = West Ridge from South
From Tatopani to Nanchung to Ghaleti Khola to BC
BC at 4000m
Route is first to South Face of West Ridge and then east along ridge to top
2 camps on face and 3 on ridge = 5 camps above BC
C5 about 7200m
Most difficult part will last 300m of ridge to top, rock ridge with steep
rock walls
Leave KTM Friday or Saturday by road to Pokhara. Pokhara to BC 7 days.
Arrive BC middle April: 12-14th
4 weeks climbing; top by middle May: 10-20th
Quite sure to succeed
Best climbers from Tyrol; Hermann Neumayr led much of last years climb
No oxygen climbing
4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Chopal