원정 개요

Ballmann + Burkhardt - 27 May 80

6 came to KTM todayl others in Marpha and on to KTM 3 or 4 June.
2 with frostbitten toes but no major loss.
No accidents and one pneumonia in early days reached summit.
New snow on 15th and 16th delayed more summit attempts and no oxygen in high camp.

Ang Rita after 1st ascent descended to ABC at 5700m before going up again; spent more than week over 7000m. Never used oxygen as other 2 Sherpas but all members summiters did.

Ballmann met Polish, etc. They all 4 climbed face to 7500m to Swiss C3, then down for rest and back up NE Ridge all the way from 4500m-4700m until 16 May. Then up with Ballmann's party and on top with Ballmann party from C3, which was highest cap at 7500m.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 26 May 80

Summit by 17 men:
13 May- 1) Hans Van Kaenel, leader, 40, Bern
2) Fritz Luchsinger, 59 years
3) Ang Rita Sherpa, 36, Namche, at top 10:30 am

14 May- 4) Hans Zimmermann, 43, electrician, Biel, Switzerland
5) Hans Joerg Mueller, 1949, mountain guide, Reichabach, Switz.
6) Josep Buholzer, 1947, joiner, Horw, Switzerland
7) Raymond Monneret, 1942, Moutier, Switzerland

17 May- 8) Hana Burgstaller, 44, master baker, Putzleinsdorf, Austria
9) Hans Eitel
10) Fredy Graf, Switzerland
11) Marcel Ruedi, Switzerland

18 May- 12) Mike Ballmann, Switzerland
13) Rudolf Bleiker, Switzerland
14) Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa
15) Lhakpa Gyalzen Sherpa (without oxygen)

19 May- 16) Simon Burkhandt, Switzerland
17) Jean Mueller, Switzerland
18) Ang Rita Sherpa (again)

Expedition finished.


Von Kaenel & Burger - 17 March 80

Route = NE Ridge (Swiss route)
Leave KTM 19 or 20 March; last member arrives KTM tomorrow and all baggage here.
Road to Pokhara; leave by 22 March arrive 13-14 days to BC with about 200
porters via Myagdi Khola.
BC at Italian site at 4600m and one week there.
Prepare ABC at 5600m after one month start for Col.
3 camps above ABC summit in 1st 10 days of May.
9 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Mingma Mote.
Oxygen for climbing above last camp at 7800m (same may not use it).
Give chance to advanced climbers (good ones but no stars) to climb 8000m.
20th anniversary of 1st ascent when all food brought from Switzerland; now as
much food as possible from Nepal.