원정 개요

Harder - 22 May 80

Route: Dutch route on North Face pretty much same as Dutch actually followed.

No oxygen at all by anyone except for Erika when she got pneumonia. Had only 10 bottles with expedition for medical use; didn't use for sleeping.

C4 to C5 slow because snow waist deep; 2 Sherpas got sick and 1 member also. Most laborous part was the technical difficulties between C3 to C4.

No accidents, one member with some frostbite.

Returned from BC by Mristi Khola, but really impossible for porters via normal way to BC; had to put in 600m fixed ropes. Took 8 days from Choya instead of expected 4 because could not find enough porters willing to go beyond Choya.


Mueller-Esterl - 17 May 80

Mueller-Esterl came to KTM by helicopter yesterday with Schrag who has frostbitten feet (will lose no toes). All others (except Erika Heimrath) are well and return to KTM 20 May. Erika OK now in KTM and returns with others to Germany. All leave 22 May.


Hans Heimrath - 6 May 80

1 May 4:30 pm 2 members reached top: Ang Dorje, Gustav Harder and Staltmayr and back C6 21:00 hrs. Left C6 7:00 am (C6 at 7500m left of cycle). Using Dutch route.

3 May Schrag + Broeg + Ang Tsangi + Maila Pemba on summit 16:15 hrs and back to C5 21:00 and these 2 Sherpas to BC yesterday and other 2 in C4 yesterday.

Yesterday those 2 skied C6->C4 and yesterday and today to C3 then no skiing possible on Dutch route. No one skied from summit. A lot of snow, too exhausting to carry skis up and ski down.

Nikolaus Harder and Hummler to BC exhausted and unable go to top; Staltmayr same frostbite in fingers.

Today or tomorrow, last man reaches BC. Expedition leaves KTM 21 or 23 May, arrives KTM 16 or 17 May.

Erika Heimrath sick in hotel with Harstt, her father, who was visiting expedition.


Gustav Harder & Dr Mueller-Esterl - 17 March 80

Route = North Face, Dutch or French routes depending on snow.
Leave KTM after baggage arrive expedition Delhi.
Road to Pokhara, 10 days to BC in usual place at 4800m.
4-5 high camps with highest at 7300-7400m.
5 Sherpas including sirdar Ang Dorje above BC.
Oxygen medical only.

Skiing down Annapurna: all members except doctor equipped for this; we learned from that (79) accident; maybe not possible to ski at that place, in one section consider that French skied down Annapurna.

If ascend French route will descend by ski same route; if ascend Dutch route, would have to ski down different (i.e., French) route. Most important thing is to reach summit 6 weeks on mountain.


Letter from Gustav Harder - 5 May 1980

On 7 May Gustav Harder, Konrad Staltmayr and Ang Dorje Sherpa reached the top of Annapurna I at 16.00.

On May Wolfgang Broeg, Karl Schrag, Ang Sangey Sherpa and Maila Pemba Sherpa reached the top at 17:00.

Both groups worked without oxygen.

The last camp was on an altitude of 7450m. The way from base camp to the top we followed the Dutch way. Skiing down was not possible; of course the way of the French was too dangerous about avalanches. Broeg, Schrag, Maila Pemba and Ang Sangey are in moment.

On the way down to the base camp. All climbers are well. On the May 11 we will start the way back to KTM.


Letter from Gustav Harder - April 14, 1980

The way to the base camps was very difficult. The reason was the lot of snow on the way up from Kali Gandaki and some problem with the porters. So we need 14 days from Pokhara to Base Camps.

Now we are a week here and today the first group will reach C3 above the Dutch ridge.

All members are by good health.