원정 개요

Georg Ritter - 31 May 80

BC by 1st group about 6 or 7 April - Polish BC
C1 about 13 April at 6100m
C2 about 23 April at 6400m
C3 about 01 May at 7100m
C4 14 May at 7700m

Summit 15 May by Ritter and 2 Sherpas and back to C4. All 3 used oxygen. One other Sherpa Ang Zambu was with them didn't use oxygen up to 8500m, turned back and used oxygen all way down (turned back because mind confused, tired, it was late).

Lot of new snow on 15 May.

Ritter reached summit 1:45 pm and Sherpas, found Indian flag ond snowbar: bar sticking out of snow, left it there.

Two summit parties tried to reach C4 with idea to go to summit next day. Tried on 11 or 12 May and other 9 May; failed for many reasons including deep snow making it had going.

Polish women at one or 2 times in C3 but don't think they made summit attempt (Ritter ill in BC at this time).

No accidents - some here little frostbite.

Route was same at British in 1955. So much snow against us, better to use sure route rather than mere direct route which looked very difficult (very steep rock, probably needed stronger summiter, not so late in season, not last possible summit attempt, no time for experiments).
In descent powder snow was avalanching with us.

Germany Kangchenjunga and Mexican Yalung Kang expedition alternately made route and fixed ropes to C2 and C3. Their C3's about 150m apart (Mexican higher than German) and C4's about 100m apart.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 23 May 80

Summit 15 May at 2:00 pm by
1) Georg Ritter, born 1947, engineer, Kleinheppach, West Germany
2) Nima Dorjee, 28, Pangboche
3) Lhakpa Gyalbu, 27, Phortse

These 3+1 Sherpa established C4 14 May at 7800m at 12 noon. Early am 15 May they started towards top and returned to C4 7:00 pm. 1 Sherpa Ang Zambu went without oxygen to 8520m with other 3. They went with oxygen. Ang Zambu has slightly frostbitten toes, so returned to C4 alone while others on up. No information on attempting again.


Mrs Georg Ritter - 24 April 80

10 April: 1st members reached BC, Herriligkoffer much later.
Left BC 12 April.


Herrligkoffer - 16 March 80

Begin climbing early April; 6 weeks climbing
4 camps above BC - C4 7800m
BC 5500m
C1 6100m
C2 6600m
C2 7300m

Oxygen for some members from last camp. 60 bottles from C4 route is more direct than British 1955.

10 Sherpas above BC including Gyalgen.