원정 개요

BC at Tora Gompa Glacier
C1 at Tora Gompa Glacier
C2 on West Ridge
C3 on West Ridge.

Had to change climbing route: learned 2 days before 18th Oct departure from KTM that South Ridge from Nepal on China border [closed] and therefore must climb another route and change approach route to go from Trisuli Bazar via Arughat Bazar, up Buri Gandaki to Sirdibas, then Siyar Khola and Tora Gompa Khola.

From C1 to C3 all vertical ridge of rock and ice so when Sherpas dropped load of pitons on 11 Nov and load lost in 1000m drop, had to stop climb. Climb was difficult and dangerous and perhaps "lost load intentionally." Very good weather everyday; very difficult for small team of Koreans when Nepal "members" didn't work, made trouble, demanded more money.

Expedition left KTM very late because baggage did not arrive on schedule.