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Expedition to Ganesh Himal Autumn 1980

Ganesh IV · 1980 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

Decamp & Feuillarade - 27 Oct 80

Climb 8th Oct to 13th by 3 French. Feuillarade and 3 Sherpas tried to go via SW Ridge but it was too much for him to succeed. Tried on 9th and 10th reached about 6000m. Expedition finished after 13th safe descent.

All Ok except Boissanet and Quilici.

Would have gone to Ganesh II also if not so many members had left expedition in Sept and Thomas not strong climber.

Difficult sections:
1) below 1st biv - snow mushrooms and very steep
2) about 6700m area more than 60% snow

Climbed very light. no sleeping bags; down clothes and tent only. Made snow
cave at 3rd bergschrund by Decamp, Dufour and Richier
Climbed South SW Spur or Pillar:
8th Oct: BC to 1st Biv at 6100m
9th Oct: 1st Biv to 2nd Biv at 6500m
10th: 2nd Biv to 3rd Biv at 6900m
11th: 3rd Biv to summit to SE Ridge and down Japanese route with 4th Bivouac at 6900m
12th - 4 Biv to C1
13th - C1 to BC
(see sketch map next page)


Mohan Rai, Manaslu Trekking - 7 Oct 80

Dr. Boissonnet left expedition 23 Sept because of swollen foot from infected leech bite. Dr. Brochand left expedition with with Boissonnet and both fly to France tomorrow.

Today Quilici arrived in KTM with pulmonary edema; left BC 28 Sept, was carried for first 3 days, walked rest of way; will also leave for France tomorrow.


Feuillarade, Leblanc & Thomas - 2 Sept 80

Ganesh III and IV
Ganesh IV route, SW Ridge up and SE Ridge down, this first goal
Ganesh III after IV if time permits (route West Ridge)
BC at 5000m south-southeast of Ganesh IV
Approach via Ankhu Khola

One camp above Ganesh IV; alpine-style climb for most part. French special food for altitude in plastic bags for different altitudes.

If possible, after Ganesh IV will continue to traverse ridge eastwards and not descend to BC with one biv.

Sherpas above BC: Lhakpa = member
Mingma Tenzing = Sirdar
+ Dawa Bahadur Tamang maybe above BC (he will try)
Oxygen medical only
3 members in KTM, rest or KTM 11 Sept; leave 13 or 14 Sept.
10 days approach much from Trisuli Bazar to BC.
Medical research

  • 내부 원정 ID1857
  • 원본 EXPIDGAN480301
  • 대장Michel Feuillarade
  • 루트 (Route)SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down
  • 최고 도달고도7104m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Michel FeuillaradeFranceLeader---
Herve BoissonnetFranceClimber---
Dominique BrochardFranceClimber---
Erik DecampFranceClimber성공--
Guy DufourFranceClimber성공--
Henri LeBlancFranceClimber---
Jean Paul QuiliciFranceClimber---
Alain RichierFranceClimber성공--
Guy ThomasFranceClimber---
Mingma Tenzing SherpaNepalSirdar---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1980 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1980 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125802/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-IV-Pabil · 1980 · 웹사이트 (5) ·