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Julien Graux

Baruntse · 1980 · 봄 (1) · France

원정 개요

Buhler - 12 May 80

Those watching French saw them going up and then down later; almost surely had reached summit. In descent on North Face seemed to fall into crevasse at about 6900m while making a horizontal traverse and then suddenly go down. Apparently had been using Spaniard's final route to summit. Last seen by Spanish at 3:00 pm on 28th.


Buhler and Lopez - 11 May 80 (Spanish Baruntse)

On 28 April, 2 French members seen from Spaniard's C1 climbing stronger and then disappeared, possibly into crevasse, in afternoon (3:00 pm) at about 6900m at foot steep NE wall Spaniards had climbed and which leads to North Ridge. Seen by Phu Tashi, kitchen boy, and leader.


Mukhia of OHA - 9 May 80

He went in helicopter for French Baruntse expedition today. Took 1 Sherpa from KTM and picked up 2 Sherpas from Pangboche. 3 Sherpas were dropped on glacier above BC and below where members bodies are believed to be (at about 5800m).

Sherpas instructed to bring bodies to BC and inform KTM, Yves Austin, French Embassy. Sherpas will be instructed to bury or cremate bodies at BC.


Yves Austin, French Embassy - 6 May 80

Went first to BC at 14,000 feet in helicopter, then up to 5700m.

Saw ropes and other traces of where they had been climbing; fell 500-600 feet making route tied together. Were nearly at summit and fell down to 5700m down glacier North Face.

Last night heavy snowfalls and could see where bodies are in snow had were slightly above; will probably send Sherpas to site where fallen, 5+ hours from BC.

Film team at BC.

No attempts on Everest and Lhotse today because very strong wind early.
Had reached about 6500m on ridge, fell on left side about 800m.


Premchausha Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80

Missing members
1) Julien Graux, born 1946, leader
2) Phillippe Grezat, born 1956

Since 26 April where going from C2 to site for C3 in afternoon when suddenly clouds gathered. 27 April not sighted. 29 April 3 Sherpas from BC up they went to C2 and saw nothing except blood on rock and saw white objects; seen below C2.

Helicopter requested. Not sighted to 2 May at least.


Robert Rieffel - 4 May 80

One member of French Baruntse expedition came to KTM; [Robert] Rieffel saw him last Thursday carrying his backpack. Said he'd fallen into crevasse, but roped to another fellow who belayed him; fell only 6-7m into crevasse, 2 or 3 ribs cracked.

Rieffel doesn't know member's name, but M. Pelle of Delta/Universal Tours of knows [Pelle says it was Van de Velde].


Van de Velde - 9 April 80

Approach via Chhukung village, last on Imja Glacier to col at 6190m between Cho Polu and Baruntse and then south up North Ridge.

Route = North Ridge from west.
Arrived in KTM 5 and 10 days ago; 2 leave 5 April and about 7-8 April
Fly to Lukla 4-5 days to BC.
BC at about 5200m, 1 camp at 6200m on col, 1 camp perhaps at about 7000m
Very light expedition, no fixed project, not sure exactly of route.
All in BC mid-April and summit end of April.
Not too difficult and above col quite easy.
No oxygen.
1 Sherpa only, probably above BC, name don't know.
Expedition has no name
Probably stay in GHA's Lazimpat store room on return to KTM.

  • 내부 원정 ID1855
  • 원본 EXPIDBARU80102
  • 대장Julien Graux
  • 루트 (Route)N Ridge from W
  • 최고 도달고도6900m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유사고 (6)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Julien GrauxFranceLeader--사망
Etienne De GrammontFranceFilm Team---
Michel FoubertFranceFilm Team---
Philippe GrezatFranceClimber--사망
Denis Van de VeldeFranceClimber---
Gerard ZimmermanFranceFilm Team---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1980 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1980 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124901/Baruntse-Tragedy · 1980 · 웹사이트 (5) ·