원정 개요

Nottaris & Senaldi - 2 Feb 81

Now in KTM (arrived yesterday): Nottaris, Dr. Senaldi, Zimmermann
Reached 15 Jan to 7220m, little below C4 site. 7350m by Nottaris alone
Not higher: bad weather, very cold, snow, wind -48 degrees at 7200m.

Leader had altitude problem, so only 3 climbers; leader in BC only. Impossible for parties to bring supplies above BC because deep snow.

Ministry of Tourism BC to C3 correct.

Left BC 23 Jan. Now trip helicopter to BC see if anyone there and found left at 6700m but sticks, but no tracks above that. No fixed rope and no pitons, nothing above that. Italians put 4000m fixed rope. Wind so strong on ridge: impossible to move without fixed rope.

Route exactly same as British SE Ridge 1980.

All 7 Italians tents broken by very strong wind, one completely destroyed. Wind and snow worse than expected. Poles said not so much snow. Wind 200 km often and change direction from south to north.


LO's report to Tourism, published 26 Jan 81

C2 21 Dec 6320m
C3 30 Dec 6800m by Mario Curnis, Claude Zimmerman, Ang Pasang on SE Ridge.
Weather: good, wind strong (too much)
Temperature: -15 degrees to 8 degrees Centrigrade


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 5 Jan 81

C1 5880m 13 Dec
-15 degrees C = minimum temperature
+12 degrees C = maximum temperature
wind very strong


Nottaris - 15 Nov 80

International Expedition Makalu
Route = SE Ridge , Japanese 1970 & Spring 1976 (Britain 1980)

In winter very difficult with wind and cold; if not much wind use Britain 1980 route, i.e., ridge all the way. If wind really bad, joins ridge at 6800m from Barun Pokhari via glacier to ridge (along altitude markings on Schneider map of 5600m, 5800m, 6000m, 6200m, etc).

4 alpinists, 1 Dr and 1 BC mgr. All now in KTM. Go to Dharan or Tumlingtar 22 Nov.
BC to be established about 10-11 at 4900m southwest of Barun Pokhari.
3 camps above BC
C3 7500m
C3 -> summit alpine style

Wind is big problem, technically not so difficult; difficulties is wind and cold.

Oxygen use: have 25 bottles, if necessary use it: if impossible because of wind
will use it
4 Sherpas above BC
Summit 1-10 Jan; success depends on weather.
Cassaroto amongst 10 best climbers in world; all very strong.