원정 개요

Ikegami - 12 Jan 81

2nd summit party on 23 Dec reached 7000m but turned back by snowfall and very strong wind: Azuma, Matsumoto, H. Nakamura, T. Nakamura, Suzaki, Hanai and Ishmura.

Route = SE Ridge, same as Japanese 1980 autumn and 1954, so 3rd successful team via this ridge.

In other season not so difficult except 100m knife ridge about 7000m same difficult; other easy but C3 and C4 hit by very strong wind from west but tent not destroyed.

General leader and his Dr. reached 1 day below BC. Never at BC, reached 1 day below 23 Dec when heavy snowfall occurred of 20 cm at BC.

2nd attempt made from C4 and reached 7000m and returned to C4. 24th hoped to go up again but also snowing on 24th and so to C4 on 24th instead.

No accidents, frostbite illness.

4 members and Hayashi and Sato now in KTM and others arrive 13 Jan if flight operates.

On top much snow and lower temperature so don't feel cold but wind may strong in Nepal. Also sunlight hours same in Japan and Nepal but mentally reluctant go outside tent in Nepal. Wind same Japan cyclones. 2/3 of all days was strong wind (maximum 25m/sec at C3 90 km/hr).

6000m and 7000m not so difficult 4 Dec between Jan temperature lower; wind is lower than on 8000m peaks. Dec better than pre- and post-monsoon, but 8000m very difficult. Sept very much snowfall and so dangerous for avalanche. Saw avalanches from icefall of Makalu, not on Baruntse.

Used oxygen sleeping at C4 by 2 persons nights before summit bids (1 now each bid - different men).

Noshaq climbed in winter by Poles 1972 or 1973; only other ascent of 7000m peak in Dec-Jan.

15 Dec weather fine and wind not so bad except on summit maybe 20 cm/sec
2 members leave Nepal after 10 days, others maybe trekking.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 8 Jan 81

15 Dec 4 Japanese and 1 Sherpa summited
23 Dec were to make another attempt and did so, but unsuccessful because
strong wind and snow reached 7000m
24 Dec abandoned
29 Dec left BC
All well


Shailendra Sharma - 23 Dec 80

C2 3 Dec - 5720m
C1 1 Dec - 5130m
C3 5 Dec - 6140m
C4 last camp 13 Dec to be established.
Letter from expedition leader dated 9 Dec.
Maximum temperature C3 on 8 Dec -4 degrees centrigrade.
Minimum -13 degree centrigrade.
Very windy
All well


Hayashi - 4 Dec 80

Climbing party reached BC 17 Nov and reported very cold and some members not sick.

Hayashi and Dr. Sato will leave tomorrow to Tumlingtar and trek; hope to reach BC and even C1. Hayashi climbed in Canada Rockies 5 years ago but not to such altitude.


Ishimura - 13 Oct 80

On top on 1st Jan.
12 members, 3 now in KTM; others in 2 weeks and 2 old members arrive 5 Nov and go to BC only; 10 climbing members.

Divide 10 climbers in 2 parties: 1 by road to Dharan with Sherpas and baggage leave KTM 23 Oct. Others leave 31 Oct by air to Tumlingtar. Next 1st party there on 31 Oct and leave for BC 1 Nov.
2 weeks to BC.

Route = South Ridge, but via different early part of route (see map).

BC at 5000m on Barun Glacier
C1 5300m
C2 6000m
C3 6300m
C4 6700m on ridge
6 H-A Sherpas plus sirdar Wangal (7 total)
Oxygen for sleeping and medical
Will do same acclimatization at Shipton Pass (4000m) route to BC.
1 Dec start climbing.
1 Jan summit.