원정 개요

Joe Tasker - 11 Feb 81

Only two climbers, Tasker and Ad Burgess, who were fit and able to climb in the end. Others were sick with stomach problems, coughs, etc. Joe and Ad would have carried on if there had been anyone to back them up.

Winter weather is whole different scene in Hamalayas climbing, like alpine-style 20 years ago. Joe wants to come again in winter.


Rouse - 10 Feb 81

C1 Lho La, 20,000 feet, West end in ice cave
C2 North Face, 22,500 ft, tents destroyed early in expedition by winds and now
reestablished.
C3 just below 23,500 feet top of shoulder in crevasse.

Went above C3 but never good enough weather to reach C4 site; reached 24,000 feet, but always had wind. Ad Burgess and Joe Tasker once reached there in January.

Rouse lost 26 lbs (more than any others), was ill a month with stomach trouble. Rouse arrived KTM today, others came tomorrow.

Avalanche weather for winter: "need good luck to climb it." Would have needed two more camps to get to top and then several days of good weather (no wind); perhaps two weeks.

30 lbs rucksacks blown onto side of Lho La by wind last week. Gave up attempt really about 1st Feb without formal decision. In Dec good to climb up to 23,000 feet but after that winter waste of time. Poles must have lucky with wind and were used to winter. No accidents or frostbite.


John Porter - 3 Feb 81

Left BC Fri 30 Jan and arrived KTM today, Paul Nunn comes tomorrow - both from Lukla.

Winds and illness were 2 worse problems. 4 fit people arriving at BC and only 2 by 30: Joe Tasker and Ad Burgess. Rouse very ill arriving BC and never recovered from stomach and cough.

Wind: had to crawl across Lho La probably following Yugoslav route; their ropes found here and there; many also went over to Hornbein Couloir. If expedition doesn't get much further this week, will probably quit.

C1 - 15 Dec 20,000 feet
C2 - 28 Dec 22,000 feet
C3 - about 15 Jan 23,500 feet
C4 - to be at 24,000
C4 - 26,000
Biv above C5


Alan Rouse - 7 Nov 80

Climbing without oxygen and light weight means have to get acclimatized and fit. 6 members including, 3 camera crew, leave KTM 13 Nov walking in. 4 more arrive 19th Nov and fly to Lukla and meet in Namche/Khumjung and together go to BC directly and then start climb.

From BC to Lho La with camp at one end or other depending on seracs; other camp at very top of shoulder. Expect to rope route on shoulder but not above shoulder. Bivs between camp and top.

No Sherpas above BC. Want to climb without oxygen but if get very high and could climb it only with oxygen would use it if have it. Don't expect to use it. Oxygen its really for protecting against cold. We have face masks to warm breath before it comes in.

Aim to get acclimatized and fit and make rush to top; if failed twice would probably take one oxygen bottle each. Re Hornbein Couloir: will see what conditions are on mountain; might go up it.

13 Nov 81

Bought 16 oxygen bottles and 4 sets from Dhaulagiri expedition.


Rouse - 10 Nov 80

Had some 2nd thoughts once in Nepal extreme cold and wind continued; without oxygen can't survive, require oxygen to make yourself survive; have new one piece suits. No oxygen left from brain and heart requirements so body stops body from shivering.

Everest winter 1980-1
Alan Rouse
Joe Tasker
Brian Hall
John Porter
Paul Nunn
Alan Burgess
Adrian Burgess
Dr. Peter Thexton

West Ridge via Lho La
0 Sherpas above BC
5 oxygen bottles