원정 개요

BC on north side of East Ridge above Samagaon
C1 on East Ridge
C2 on East Ridge
C3 east of Ridge at foot of NE Face.

New route: last 700m steep rock and ice, and the altitude and steepness is not known; have little information of details of route (do not know if Yugoslavs climbed face).

From C3 climbed to summit plateau crossing under NE Face. From plateau followed normal way to summit. On 23 April 1st summit bid by Studer, Ang Kami and Lhakpa (sirdar), but could not go above C3 on 24th because of heavy snowfall night of 23 April, so went down.

On 29 Arpil again up (from BC on 29th to C2). Arrived C3 30 April. At 10:00 pm 30th started for top (night climb because always clear at night). Studer, Mayerhofer and Ang Kami set out, but Mayerhofer turned back after 100m because fingers freezing. Studer and Ang Kami climbed till moonlight gone at 1:00 am again moved up about 4:30 am and reached top 3:00 pm. Took longer than expected - spent night at saddle at 7400m waiting again for sun,

Studer slight frostbite in feet on summit push.

Gabl, Juen, Ljubanovic and Schranz left BC to C2 on 1 May and C3 on 2 May. 3 May much snowfall. 4 May from C3 at 5:00 am (3 men, Ljubanovic to BC). Gabl, Juen and Schranz reached 7300m at 10:00 am, couldn't find way from there to plateau in cloud, turned back at 3:00 pm when now snowfall stopped. Juen at 500m from C2 (not vertical distance) slipped in vertical icefall above C3 and avalanche started at same time and he was swept away with no sign of where he went. No more attempts at summit.


Banskota, Tourism - 3 May 85

Studer and Ang Kami Sherpa summit from East Ridge to NE Face at 3:00 pm 1 May. Raised Nepal and Austrian flags and took photos. Cloudy and windy at top, 5 minutes stay. Started from C3 at 10:00 pm 30 Arpil. Studer returned BC 9:50 pm 1 May. Other 4 members intended to reach summit.

Studer leaves BC for KTM arrival 6 May; others leave BC after 1 week from 3 May.