원정 개요

Kikuchi, et al - 29 May 81

Traverse from main summit to Yalung Kang planned to be by Yamada and Fujikura and other 4 Kangchenjunga summiters were support team (Hoseka, Kataoka, Suzuki and Nima Temba).

Ogata and Yashima to traverse from Yalung Kang to Kangchenjunga and other 3 in support (Yajihara, Tobita and Tsunoda). Idea was double traverse crossing on ridge between 2 peaks.

Abandoned traverse idea because Fujikura took so long from final camp to summit: not 3 hours from 8300m final camp to Kangchenjunga and 8 hours in deep snow to Yalung Kang and 2 Kangchenjunga summiters looked at final ridge to Yalung Kang, very difficult and maybe 2 days with a biv between peaks. So each team including supporters went to top and returned they had gone to respective summits.

All returned to KTM yesterday and all well except some frostbitten toes that will heal.

BC establihed by advance team; full expedition in BC 31 March.
BC - 16 March - 5500m
C1 - 22 March - 6150m
C2 - 29 March - 6450m
C3 - 31 March - 7300m

ABC reached occupied in 14 April for complete acclimatization at 4200m rest camp.

C4W - 20 April - 7850m (Yalung Kang)
C4M - 23 April - 7850m (Main)
C5W - 8 May - 8250m (Yalung Kang)
C5M - 8 May - 8300m (Main)

Summits on 9 May: both teams descended that day to C3.

On Yalung Kang no trace of Mexican lost near top. Both teams left survey poles atop both peaks; each pole 2m high red and white alternately with support wires for Kangchenjunga pole.

Big avalanche from 7000m to glacier 2 km wide; no one hurt, but route wiped out and few loads lost. Small avalanche came near C2 and 2 Sherpas injured.

All summiters used oxygen from their C5's.
No accidents.

Yalung Kang summiters think traverse to main peak more difficult then vice versa; also think Japanese 1973 expedition not successful.


Ogata & Yogihara (Yamamori) - 20 Feb 81

If South and Central summits permitted, will not go to Yalung Kang. One party to South Summit and traverse Central Summit to Main.

ABC (C3) - 7100m (Great Shelf)
S C4 - 7600m
S C5 - 8300m below South Summit
Camp between Central and Main summit = Main C5 - 8350m

Other support party direct to Main Summit via Main C5 8350m as support for first party. Both parties descend from Main Summit direct to Great Shelf.

1st day support party to Main Summit and down to their C4 at 7800m. Next day South Summit party to S Summit from their C5 to Central Summit to support C5. 3rd day S Summit party to Main Summit and down to support C4. 4th day both parties to C2.

3 members now in KTM
3 members now in Biratnagar
7 members left Dharan on 16 Feb for BC
1 (Dr.) arrives KTM 20 Feb
4 KTM-ites leave KTM 24 Feb


Kikuchi - 5 Feb 81

Kangchenjunga Main
BC - 5500m
C1 - 6100m
C2 - 6300m
C3 - 7100m
C4 - 7800m
C5 - 8300m
Route and camps to great shelf same for both summits

Yalung Kang
C4 = 7800m
C5 = 8350m

From Yalung down towards main peak very steep knife ridge, so traverse may not be possible. Might go up main peak via couloir and down British route.


Kikuchi - 27 Jan 81

9 climbers to Yalung Kang via Great Shelf. Summiters then traverse ridge to Kangchenjunga Main peak, same route as 1975 Germans.

To main peak - 1) to make route for traverse descent and
2) to reach summit from somewhere - British route

Traverse from Yalung Kang to main Kangchenjunga will biv at Col on way to Kangchenjunga.

15 HA Sherpas including 2 sirdars:

Pemba Nurbu (Namche, 31, Polish winter sirdar, Everest summiter with Koreans)
Pemba Tshering (Thami, 36, spring 1980 Kangch Japanese North Face w/o oxygen)

Oxygen for some climbers if want it. 50 bottles with expedition and all will try not to use, some definitely will not use it.

BC 5500m at end March, summits mid to end May
4 camps above BC to Yalung Kang. C4 8350m, high because of traverse
4 camps for main peak, C4 8300m
60 porters
18 climbers, 1 doctor and 1 leader = 20 members


Kaoru Kikuchi - 5 June 78

Himalayan Association of Japan plan send 17 members "recce" to climb Kangchenjunga's South Summit in spring 1981 and another 17-member team to go to S Summit and traverse via Central Summit (8478m), a virgin peak, to Main Summit, a distance of 2 km.

BC on Yalung Glacier, route via Great Shelf.

Yalung Kang: Yagihara, Ogata, Tobita, Yashima and Tsunoda