원정 개요

C6 placed on 21 May at 7120m but not occupied; this expedition's highest point.


Messner - 19 March 82

Japanese route in Spring 1981 = SE Face
(mountain has two faces on Nepalese side: SW & SW Faces).


Ohmri T. Komatsu, et al - 5 June 81

BC on 11 April on Lungsampa Glacier at 5150m.

C1 at 5200m on 14 April for east route, at point just south of "L" in black on Schneider map of Lungsampa.

Route changed because very dangerous: every day big avalanche of snow and ice; icefall was not so difficult but dangerous.

Route changed to South Ridge; BC same but C1 changed.
New C1 - 23 April at 5600m on South Ridge
C2 - 27 Apr - 5950m
C3 - 4 May - 6350m
C4 - 9 May - 6450m
C5 - 17 May - 6850m
C6 - 21 May - 7120m (but not slept in at all)

New C1 to C4 of point 6500m and atmost at this point
Max altitude 7120m = C6 just above "U" west point 7110m

22 May tried to go up to C6, but bad weather prevented reaching it: every day it snowed. No one very reached C6 again. After 4 days waiting to be able to go up, decided to stop climb. C6 is still there.

No accidents or frostbite.

Doubt Austria-Germany scaled South Face because its very difficult and dangerous from daily avalanche. Same possibility via East Face especially in post-monsoon. No sign of previous climbers on South Face, a route east of Japanese route.

South Ridge is possible if had many days good weather. Need at least C7 and maybe C8, very long route. Same difficult below 6500m and above 7200m (above 7200m difficult rock ridge).


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 24 May 81

C5 22 May 7200m, weather bad on 23rd, no plans of summit.


Otsu - 6 May 81

Cho Oyu expedition changed route because of too many avalanches; not so difficult.


Shailendra Sharma - 4 May 81

Cho Oyu route changed: reason not known why changed; thinks because of difficulty. No camp information at all.


Kamatsu, Yoshio & Ohmori - 23 Feb 81

Route = East Face = new route
Approach via Gokyo Pokhari and Lungsampa Glacier.
BC at about "p" of L. Glacier on Schneider Khumbu map at 5250m
5 camps above BC (see leaflet for altitudes).
East Face is snow face.
Icefall above BC to C2 (C2 = ABC above icefall).

Most difficult area is C3 to C4 because of hanging glacier; "little danger" from hanging says deputy leader.

Half members use no oxygen and others will use it because women and old who use it sleeping in C5 and to summit.

29 Japanese members.
12 Nepalese members including 3 Sherpas.
No Sherpas above BC who are not members.
26 Japanese now in KTM and 3 arrive today.
Leave KTM 27 or 28 Feb by air to Lukla.
Arrive BC 20 March after acclimatization in route.
Summit early May: 1-10 May

So many members because want give training for other peaks including Lhotse and Everest in 3-4 years.


Komatsu x 2 - 14 April 81

3 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members are now in KTM; go to Lukla tomorrow and take 15 days to reach BC (acclimatizing en route).

Others in Gokyo; made BC on 11 April.
Summit after 35-40 days.
Total 11 Nepalese members.


Yogendra Thapa - 14 April 81

Total 12 Nepalese members

Cho Oyu
11 Nepalese members:
Yogendra Thapa, joint Leader
Mingma Tenzing
Kamal Bhandari
Gupta Bahadur Rana
+ new members not yet decided by the above.
11 total