원정 개요

Agnew Press conference - 7 May 81

Ministry camps information correct.

Route = South Face to SE Ridge, exactly same as Japanese whose markers and equipment they found.

8 members arrived KTM 6 May; Fritz left early.

Avalanche = wet snow and chunks of ice. All buried in avalanche; Maila bruised, 3 buried couple minutes and got themselves out.

Simpson frostnipped toes of both feet, Truscott none.

C2 at top of an icefall, with small ice cliff behind it.

4 days heavy snow after C2 established and forced down to C1 and then to BC. On 2nd April went back up and re-established C1 and C2 re-established 22 April.

Arrive 22 - 4 in C2 (Simpson, Sloane, Truscott and Maila Pemba)
6 in C1 (Agnew, Zaharias, Cashman, Pitham, Phillpot and Temba)
In BC = Dr.

On 23rd weather poor and members tired in C2 only "went for walk around the corner" = recce at about 20,500-21,000 ft.

Route to C3 (around corner east around ice cliff behind camp).

3 went 400m distance but no gain of altitude and returned to C2 by 9:00 am. Sloane tired, stayed in camp. Truscott dug snow cave to expand space in camp and as result was in full climbing clothing. After his return to tents heard great crack roar. Those in C1 saw or heard avalanche hit ice cliff behind C3 and planed over. At C1 we thought C2 had had it and it could hit us. Agnew grabbed his boots and others jumped behind seracs. C1 got no snow from avalanche but did get blast. In C2 Truscott called to others get out of tents which they did dressed scantily in hot tents. Got 2 paces away from tents when hit by wet snow and chunks of ice couple feet across. All buried by snow. Truscott closest to ice cliff and not swept by avalanche as other 2 survivors were. Other two 30 feet to edge of ledge. C2 debris scattered about and assured Sloane swept away and over ledge/cliff. Tents shredded and poles bent. 3 survivors probed with broken tent poles for Sloane. Simpson had only booties on but various bits of clothing and biv bag recovered, then they moved into small crevasse and found Maila injured and in deep shock and sent down because otherwise would not have survived night. In C1 could hear Simpson calling C1 on walkie-talkie and thus know someone survived but could not understand the conversation. Maila seen at 12:45 pm descending and sent 2 (1 Sherpa and Cashman) to help him down. Had only broken tent pole, no crampons or axe. Reached C1 at about 2:00 pm and reported situation that 2 members needed boots but not that Sloane was missing.

Cashman and Temba went up with boots, reached only half way as wind came up and snowfall and returned to C1. Simpson and Truscott had found shovel and other items to protect them. Next day Agnew and Zaharias left at 2:00 am and went up in fair conditions and brought survivors down to C1 on 24th. Had ice axes and crampons of their own so Agnew and Zaharias made steps all way down 2 survivors went to BC then. Agnew decided to abandon because loss of equipment and more especially poor weather. Cleared C1 and returned.

Reaction to accident:

We were all very shocked, a tragic loss but were all mountaineers. Route to C4 straightforward walk and normal day's climb to summit, but this spring weather conditions might have defeated expedition. Had before accident contemplated abandoning attempt but decided to go back up. All members agreed.

Agnew and others leave KTM 18 April.


Schaumburg - 24 April 81

Expedition has changed route from ridge originally intended to climb to Japanese route = South Face to SE Ridge not particularly dangerous route. Should reach summit about 28 April.

C1 established 12 Apr at 16,250 feet
C2 " 15 Apr at 19,000 feet
C3 should be made today at 20,000 feet

Have had lousy weather snow every day; only few hours each day when could do anything and had one period 4 days could do but sweep snow off tents.

All members are well.

Schaumburg leaves KTM 26 April to return to Australia; has been away so long.


Schaumburg - 8 March 81

Just returned from Ganesh IV recce. Took 8 days to reach excellent BC site, only 4 days back to KTM. Mountain looks easier than he thought. South Face to right to ridge will be good route.

Other members arrive KTM 20 March
Leave KTM 23 and leave Trisuli 24 March
12 days for approach march with 120-150 porters
Australian Army Alpine Expedition to Ganesh IV


Schaumburg - 21 Feb 81

Application made for Ganesh IV and Schaumburg leaves on 24 Feb for recce; returns KTM in 2 weeks; will examine South Face and SE Ridge.

9 army men arrive KTM
2 Sherpas above BC, same as those with Schaumburg on recce
Leader is Captain Brian Agnew
Dr. not above BC