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Stages and Expeditions French Everest Expedition

Everest · 1996 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face.
High point at South Col.

21 Sept Bouchon going up from C3 for acclimatization and was with load-carrying Sherpas headed for Col; avalanche (cornice or slab) from top, not big but lot of ice in it. 3 of 4 Sherpas just below yellow band hit by pieces of ice but not hurt while Lobsang Jangbu, Dawa, Konishi and Bouchon below them and to right hit badly when avalanche hit yellow band and changed direction; avalanche apparently took out fixed rope; they were attacked too. Climb continued after taking Bouchon's body and talk at length with Sherpas whether they would continue (they did after consulting Lamas).

Avalanche off night of 4-5 Oct West Shoulder to BC. 3 Oct Norbu with 2 German Sherpas making route to Col and Korean Sherpas after them carrying oxygen. 4 Oct heavy snowfall and on 5th Sherpas in Icefall top also hit by small snow avalanche which covered 4 Sherpas but other Sherpas dug them out quickly. Now too much snow on the mountain and it started to be windy, so decided to stop.

Hubert climbed, ate and slept with French members; not at all independent of them as he had hoped to be.

2 Belgian non-members (trekkers) illegally went into Icefall.


Hubert - 29 Aug 96

Wanting to reach the three poles: reached North Pole in May 94 with Geothghebuer and will go to South Pole with crossing of Antarctica without resupplies or presupplies in '97 in 4000 km trip in 120 days - first unaided crossing even (with Goethghebuer).

First to 2 small Khumbu peaks. From BC to C2 and spend 2 days there - to South Col from C2 in 6-7 hours (3-10 pm) and down to BC and wait few days for better weather. On summit push, leave BC 4-5 pm, arrive C2 4 hours later; sleep in C2 and next afternoon 3 pm, reach C3 5-6 pm, Col after 3-4 hours, then leave C4 11:00-11:30 pm for top. Man Ram Tamang may be able to keep up this pace but Goethghebuer probably not - not trying for speed record.

Hubert - Post-climb

Will come to Everest again maybe in spring 1999. "Very disappointed" not possible to go to top but heavy snowfall, later strong winds and need to help with rescues of German Nuptse and then 3 Everest victims prevented his going high.

  • 내부 원정 ID1846
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER96306
  • 대장Bernard Muller
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7900m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Bernard Roger MullerFranceLeader---
Yves BouchonFranceClimber--사망
Dirk DansercoerBelgiumTrekker (non-member)---
Alberto GeniniSwitzerlandClimber---
Didier GoethghebuerBelgiumClimber---
Frederique GoubaultFranceClimber---
Daniel HernandezBelgiumTrekker (non-member)---
Alain HubertBelgiumClimber---
Daniel MercierFranceClimber---
Norbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

· 1996 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1996 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730004/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Avalanche-and-Tragedy · 1996 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730100/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Post-Monsoon · 1996 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Hawley, Elizabeth · 1996 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ