원정 개요

Toriumi - 30 May 81

All members arrive yesterday except leader who left early for Japan (flew ex-Lukla, rest trekked to KTM).

C4 15 April at 6600m, other ministry camp data and summit correct
Between C4 and summit: bad weather and route making
Route = SE Ridge of 1954 and 2 Japanese expeditions Autumn 1980 and Winter 1980-81

Only 3 members to top because some altitude sickness, some not so strong and weather not good.

Oxygen used 30 minutes before going to sleep in C4.

No accidents, frostbite or avalanche.
Did not climb other peaks.

Route very easy BC to C4, but above C4 difficult: very big crevasses and snow very soft (would be harder in post monsoon).


Kuroki - 5 Feb 81

Route = South Ridge, same as Autumn 1980 Japanese expedition
BC on Barun Glacier at 5000m
C1 - 5300m
C2 - 5800m
C3 - 6200m
C4 - 6500m
C5 - 6800m (not sure to need C5)
2 members now in KTM, 2 arrive 15 Feb.
3 members arrive 23 Feb
1 end April - BC trek.
Others in July-August (research group)
Climbing group leave KTM 26 Feb and leave Dharan 1 March
Arrive BC about 1 April
Summit middle May
1 month trek back to KTM via Khumbu for some.
2 or 3 return to KTM more quickly via air from Tumlingtar.
5 oxygen for medical only
5 Sherpas above BC