원정 개요

Mogi - 6 May 81

Others members arrive through evening. Mogi only one here now. More members did not try for summit because food very limited so had to stop.

Lucky chance for weather. Many snowing days so spent 4 days for snow in April could not move, then weather improved. Much fixed rope above C1 but 500m lost in avalanche. Many avalanches every day below C2. 4 members and 1 Sherpa hit by ice block. 2 hurt leg and shoulder but no bones broken between C1 and C2. This section not so difficult. C2->C3 difficult rock climbing; very steep and covered ice, 4-5 grade in European climbing, 40-50 degrees.

All members very good condition, no frostbite.
SE Ridge = very good route
Ministry's reports of camps and summit correct except C3 on 18 April.


Kimura - 16 March 81

Route = SE Ridge, same route as autumn 1980 Japanese
6 members arrive 15th and 3 arrive on 8th.
Leave KTM 18 March to Trisuli Bazaar; 7 days caravan to BC.
BC at 4000m; 4 camps above BC.
Arrive BC 24 March. 44 days to climb mountain.
Most difficult between C2 and C3 rock climbing.
3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar.
Oxygen medical only