원정 개요

Nishigori - 19 May 81

All members returned KTM yesterday. High point was 4 May by Kato and Tsuji. Stopped because route difficult. Approach via East Ridge of Bauda very long and needed total 3 camps not 2 as expected. Then South Ridge of Himalchuli was up and down, steep ice, difficult for carrying loads, Sherpas could not carry and this "consumed our days." Most difficult part of route still ahead on final summit ridge. Route is possible - need 6 camps and better climbing Sherpas.

All Ok, no accidents or frostbite.
Did not climb Bauda or any other summit.


Nishigori - 7 March 81

2 arrive tomorrow. All leave 10 March by road to Trisuli Bazar, then caravan to
BC at foot South Ridge (13 days).
BC at 3500m on Chhulung Glacier; 5 camps with highest at 7200m.
11 years ago Japanese climbed same route via very easy ridge to C2 and thence
to Bauda.
South Ridge of Himalchuli = new route
3 Sherpas above BC, hope they carry to final C5.

Route difficult from pass between C2 and C3 to top especially above C5 where very steep rock and must go over on to snow on West (left) side of ridge and return to ridge near summit.

Oxygen for use sleeping only at C5 and emergency.