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Shiraishi & Noda - 23 May 81

Ministry's camps and dates and summit correct except BC=3800m
Route = East Ridge (new route)

Difficult parts of route were:
1) between C2 and C3: icefall of 100m
2) between C3 and top sharp knife-edge ridge

After C3 established, all down for rest at BC for several days. Up again 30th and reached C3 and 2 May (C3 below summit of peak of 6493m east of Nilgiri North)

3 May - down and up to next peak where made temporary camp at 6350m
4 May - again down and to another peak where camped at 6500m
5 May - camp at 6580m
6 May - bad weather; stayed in 5th camp
7 May - to summit of Nilgiri North and bivouac at 6850m in down clothing only.

On top 7:00 pm; left C5 at 6:00 am; summiters were Hino and Miyazaki. Little frostbite.

No other summit attempt because not enough food and gas for such long route.
4 km from Peak 6493 to Nilgiri North along knife ridge, with hidden crevasse.


Shiraishi and Miyazaki - 14 March 81

Approach route to Jomsom and east with BC at 4500m southwest of "Meso" on Harka's map.
Climbing route = East Ridge (new route).

Over 6500m peak east of Nilgiri North to East Ridge which is then 4 km from this unnamed peak to North Nilgiri.

10 members, all in KTM. 2 arrived 5 March and others 12 March now waitiing baggage.
By truck to Pokhara; 10 days Pokhara -> BC
3 camps and 1 attack camp above BC
C1 - 5200-5300m
C2 - 6200m north side of Peak 6500m
C3 - 6300m at col between Peak 6500m and Nilgiri North
C4 - 6700m on ridge
2 Sherpas above BC
30-40 days climbing
Oxygen medical only
Difficulty in length of ridge from Peak 6500m.
Ridge is not sharp knife-edge, but South Face is sheer drop.