원정 개요

BC at 1-1/2 hours above Na at junction fo Trakarding and Ripimo Shar Glacier
C1 at SW ribs on ridge.
Biv at same
Biv at same
Biv at same (left the one tent here).

Keen on alpine-style but expedition will need one high camp. Lower section of climb with rock bands. May have to shift to E Ridge if too much objective danger from SW. Also may attempt a traverse.

All 5 members began summit push on 6 May from C1 with one 3 man tent and food for 4 days and came back 7 days later. 9th May made summit attempt but slept in crevasse in sleeping bags and got to top on 10th. In descent stayed in biv at 20,000 ft in bad weather. Back to BC on 13th. Route was a variation of 1884 autumn.

Canada-British team had underestimated mountain rock section between 18,500 to 20,000 ft had snow on it and 1000 ft rock and ice arrete above 20,000 ft to top.


Baskota, Tourism - 19 May 85

All 5 members reached top at 8:10 am 10 May; started from biv 6300m at 5:30 am and on top in fair weather; 1 hour on top; arrived C4 (6000m) at 4:30 pm; stayed in C4 on 11 May because of snowfall, 12 May to C1 and BC 13 May.

Nankervis left fingers and Harris right toes slight frostbite.

Planned to leave BC 17 May.


Banskota, Tourism - 7 May 85

All 5 members established C1 at 5600m on 1 May.