원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Tejima - 22 May 81

All members now in KTM, Tejima arrives 21 May
TBC 4050m - 19 March
BC 4750m - 24 March
C1 5300m - 7 April
ABC 5800m - 12 April
C2 6300m - 30 April
C3 6700m - 4 May

Reached high point 5 May 6800m and then decided to abandon. Long way to summit and short of snow bars and fixed rope. Each part of route had some problems: icefall on steep rock face or steep ice. By 5 May weather changed with lot of snow, thought monsoon coming.

Route was South Ridge - same as 1980 attempt

One member fell and broke left wrist on rotten rock, fell 2-3m

Not so cold so no frostbite.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 May 81

Abandoned climbing 5 May after pitching C3 at 6800m on 3 May. Bad weather and very difficult route prevented their going above C3. Left BC 13 May for return to KTM. Health good.

Mailrunner says no accidents or frostbite. Will reach KTM 20-21 May.


Tejima - 25 Feb 81

All now in KTM - leave KTM 8 March
Same as 1980 spring South or SW Ridge route
Yesterday Sharma said permit will be Ok after all documemts received.

Nepal members (required to be on permit):
1) Ang Pasang, 24 (Everest autumn winter 1980)
2) Dorje Sherpa, 23 (also Everest autumn and winter 1980 )

Sirdar = Pasang Sonam was on Gyachung Kang 1964

Will probably stay in Lazimpat house on return to KTM

2 difficulties :
1) Icefall below C1 of about 4500-5000m
2) last part of ridge at about 6600m to top; very knife-edged and long way from highest camp: 4 km may put about C4 half way along this difficult sector.


Tejima - 18 Feb 81

Route = South Ridge, same as spring 1980 (met their leader and discussed tactics)
1980 spring took many days to cross icefall and on lower parts
Now will make BC 4750m where 1980 spring had C1.
Will have C1
ABC = 6000m
C3 = 6500-6600m
9 climbers and 1 doctor = Japanese members
2 Nepalese members and 1 sirdar + 5 HA Sherpas
5 HA Sherpas to ABC
3 members now in KTM
Most members arrive KTM 23 Feb
Leave for Trisuli 1 March or so; 2 weeks caravan to BC.
Summit early May (this our first expedition to Himalayas so maybe take long time)
3 oxygen for medical only