원정 개요

Takegawa - 4 May 81

Arrived KTM 2 and 3 May.
Route they tried was direct route up dotted line to East Ridge
BC = 4250m arrived 6 April.

Biv point, C1=5100m on 11 April. 5 members started 4:00 am and 11:00 am at 5700m and deposited some food and equipment. Then 4 members climbed 40m higher but icefall in good condition but very difficult 20m high. At 11:00 very hot sun and all go down. At 3:40 pm are Shimizu hit by avalanche at 5400m and gas down 200m with avalanche but Ok.

12-13 April all members rested in BC
14 April - 4 went again to biv point
15 April 1:00 am 3 went up 300m but very deep soft snow and warm, so down
to biv; in afternoon all in BC
15-18 April snowstorm
19 April - 4 up but at biv point depot of food, tent, gas, etc. gone;
made snowhole
20 April - again snowfall and they went down to BC
21-22 April - rested in BC
23 April - 4 men went up but bad snow conditions and returned to BC
24 April - BC supplies very low so went to village to bring food
25 April - expedition finished

Highest point = 5740m reached 11 April by Shimizu, Takegawa, Abe and Horiuchi (went down same day).

Route is really good route. 3 or 4 strong men can climb in 3 days. Takegawa will come again in autumn 1982.

No serious illness or frostbite.


Yamazaki and Takegawa - 18 March 81

Route = South Face, new route up south side down East Ridge to north side.
Approach via Mristi Khola.
BC in of "B" of Thulobugin on Harka's map
BC at 4300m
No camps on face, alpine-style. First Japanese alpine-style climb in Himalayas
(but have been in Andes).
Descent via East Ridge to north side (autumn 1978 Japanese route)
No Sherpas above BC
Oxygen medical only
Leave KTM 19 March
12-15 days Pokhara/BC, arrive BC 1-2 April.
30 days climbing: 25 for acclimatization and route finding and 5 days actual climb to summit.

For acclimatization will climb Sarpong Dhuri (16,424 feet of Kali Gandaki). After Sarpong Dhuri, go to north side Nilgiri South to find descent route and then go to south side to climb. Leave some food on north side in depot, but no personnel.