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De Pablo - 23 May 81

De Pablo came by plane from Lukla 21 May; others walking and arrived KTM 25-26 May. Same route tried before unsuccessfully by Japanese De Pablo thinks.

BC 5200m just east of Island Peak on 6 April
Route then to col at 5700m of Island Peak (see Schneider map)

C1 5700m 12 May on snowfields north-northwest of col, then route along ridge from col north and north-northeast - from col all fixed rope.

C2 at 6800m, no place for it lower. 27 April 2nd tried alpine-style from C2 after 400m fixed roped to end of ridge at 7200m and after roped down for rest. Passed one night there (not really C3). De Pablo and Zabaleta were there on 8th May.

9 May arrived 7550m; slope very dangerous from avalanche, much snow. Were now at top of curve or ridge. Slept all day 10 May there in bad weather with intention to go to top of Lhotse Shar, but bad storm that night with strong wind.

11 May at 4:00 am got up to descend when one small wind avalanche carried rucksacks, etc. down Lhotse face. Men down 20m but everything else way down. Difficult now to go down in storm in 12 hours to C2 and Martin's hand frostbitten but not badly: had lost one glove and 1 crampon (got another glove at 7200m). De Pablo lost goggles and was snowblinded that night.

12 May arrived C1 and BC; others were in BC.

Only 3 climbers through out climb because Erro had serious medical problem before BC [Yugoslavia Lhotse doctor thinks he had heart attack].

Lot of wind and snow this season, wind always blowing.

Spanish route is difficult but safe; Austria's Lhotse Shar route was through icefall which is dangerous.

Spaniards found very old fixed rope 1 mm ice probably Japanese rope.

Never intended to go to Lhotse Main Peak but since Lhotse Shar not on permitted list, had to have permit for Lhotse.

Used no oxygen; had four bottles at BC and one at C2.


Erro - 10 March 81

Lhotse Basque Expedition 1981

Approach via Chhukung to Imja Glacier to Lhotse Shar Glacier to SE Face (1978 autumn Swiss route).

BC on Lhotse South Glacier at 5200m
4 camps above BC with C4 at 7500m and then biv
4 members and 3 Sherpas only
Oxygen medical only

Leave KTM soon as baggage arrives and fly to Lukla.

Climb Island Peak to acclimatize and see route; about 4 weeks from BC to Lhotse summit.

Not sure exact route because have little information face; maybe like Lhotse West Face - traverse. Lhotse Shar high up new summit perhaps on Nepal side, perhaps on Chinese side.

Have Basque flag for summit.