원정 개요

Due to shortage of time, the team abandoned plans for attempting Kangtega and Thamserku and climbed Hiunchuli instead.


Escande

Approach from SW via glacier (Kyashar glacier). BC on moriane if possible, not on glacier. Altitude not known yet, depends on snow route not yet known. Somewhere on southern or SW. Try to climb as much as possible alpine style; didn't know whether will climb all together or not. No Sherpas above BC.

Hope to leave 3 April to Lukla.

3 Swiss including Aspen climb together a lot, 3 French are frequent climbing companies.


Escande - 28 March 81

Leader here now; others arrive 29th and 31st.

Leave KTM 2nd April if get Lukla seats. Leave Nepal 8th May. Leave BC 3 or 4 May for Lukla ('63 was SE Ridge not face).

Route = on south side. Will try several routes, we hope BC on glaciers to south of mountain at 4800m. At BC or above for 1 month probably one camp above BC. No Sherpas above BC. Not on expedition or group of friends, but collection of people who want to climb in Nepal. GHM? which got permit and made arrangements for climb with Nepalese authorities and then allowed anyone who is known to be competent climber to sign up; they go to BC and climb as and when they like, independently.

One member, Aspen was with Swiss on Everest in 1952. Escande and others will do long trek back to Ktm via Teshi Lapcha and Rolwaling.