원정 개요

The 28-man French Army party, led by Jean-Claude Marmier attempted the original NE Ridge route in Spring. A four-man reconnaissance party had been sent a year before to 7000m.

The climb to N Col was disturbed by a storm on 14th April. N Col (7020m) was reached on 3rd, but C4 there was made later. C5 (7600m) was occupied on 1 May.

The 1st summit bid was attempted by leader Marmier, Robert Flematti and Herve Sachetat on 13th. But they had to descend from C6 by high winds.

The 2nd bid on 15th by Denis Ducroz, Jean-Claude Mosca, Bernard Prudhomme and Pierre Royer was disturbed by storm. Mosca and Royer stayed at C6 for three days and reached a high point of 8550m on 18th, but they had to descend by bad weather.

The third bid was attempted on 27th. Hubert Giot, Mosca and Sachetat regained a high point of 8550m, but they were suffered by storm again. A bivouac at 8500m was forced that night.

They abandoned further climb due to the continuing bad weather and returned to C3 next day. BC was evacuated on June 1.