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Hauser Expedition to Manaslu

Manaslu · 1981 · 봄 (1) · W Germany

원정 개요

Helmut Daum - 2 June 81

8 members come today by helicopter; only Schreckenbach stayed back in Sama and will come out with baggage. All Ok. None to summit after 19 May.


Woerner - 31 May 81 (Group II report)

Summit 19 May at 11:45 by two and 2:00 pm by others:
Heimbach
Millinger
Schleypen (W Germany)
Woergoetter (Austria)
Woerner (Swiss)
Weber
Pasang Norbu Sherpa

Millinger and Woergoetter skied down from 30m vertical below summit to C1; to C5 4:30 pm arrive 19 May and then 20 May to C1 on ski and to BC on foot. Probably 1st continuous ski descent from 8000m.

Possible more went to top; they arrive KTM 1 June.

On 19 May Woerner and Weber used oxygen from C5 to top and back to C5; reached top 11:45 am; left C5 at 5:30 am and returned to C3 at 5:00 pm.

All others on 19 May left C5 6:00 am and on top 2:00 pm. All to C5 4:45-5:00 pm except Pasang to C4.


Saxinger and Horn - 13 May 81 (Group I report)

Horn, Mueller, Loferer, Graf and Zebrowski on summit 9 May
Burtscher with 1st party to 7700m on 6 May, but snow and cloud and returned to C5
Burtscher problem with toes freezing and down on 7 May
Loferer = 61 years oldest in 8000m summit?
All Ok; same frosting only; no accidents
2nd Group to try summit next week.


Van Kaenel - 13 May 81 (Group I report)

1600m fixed rope C4 to C5 to bring up not so strong member.
1st summit team used no oxygen
Group II arrive BC 23 April, plan to summit 16-22 May
Loferer: (probably oldest to top of over 8000m)

"So nice and very hard," but not most difficult of his life (more difficult in Alps). Altitude makes it difficult on Manaslu. Worst part on Manaslu was in C5 because 2 nights at that altitude: not using oxygen for sleeping but only above C5. No other 8000m peak for him unless Von Kaenel leader.

1st party up nearly 300m from C5 on 6 May [first attempt]. 7 May down to C4 and C3 after summit [1st party tried again and summited on May 7].

2nd party in C5 7 May evening. 8 May bad weather = storm of snow and wind and no attempt to go up. They stayed at C5 without use of oxygen; difficult for Loferer.

Camp dates and altitudes of ministry correct except BC at 3850m


Schreckenbach & Von Kaenel - 24 March 81

Route = NE Face = normal route
Leave KTM 25 March, arrive BC after 12 days
BC 3950m, same as usual near Sama
4 or 5 camps above BC
Highest at 7500-7600m
11 Sherpas and 2 sirdars above BC same loads to C1
5 weeks to summit from BC
Leave Nepal 15 May (1st group )
Oxygen medical only

Hauser Expedition to Manaslu
2nd group arrive KTM 8 or 10 April and on BC about 20 April and also 5 weeks
on mountain
1st group: 14 members
2nd group: 16 + 1 (1=Schreckenbach) who meets them in BC
Mr Heimbach brings 2nd group to Nepal and BC.

  • 내부 원정 ID1828
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA81101
  • 대장Hans Von Kaenel, Bernd Schreckenbach
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도8163m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 31명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Bernd SchreckenbachW GermanyLeader---
Johann (Hans) Von KaenelSwitzerlandLeader성공--
Franz Karl BurtscherAustriaClimber---
Helmut DaumW GermanyClimber---
Joerg DaumW GermanyClimber---
Karl DonnerW GermanyClimber---
Fredy GrafSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Helmut GriesingerW GermanyClimber---
Axel HahnW GermanyClimber---
Walter HeimbachW GermanyClimber성공--
Karl HornW GermanyClimber성공--
Paul KellnerW GermanyClimber---
Andreas LofererW GermanyClimber성공사용-
Juergen MeckeW GermanyClimber성공--
Josef MillingerAustriaClimber성공--
Hans Joerg MuellerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Friedrich PeterkaAustriaClimber---
Bernd SaxingerAustriaClimber---
Ruediger SchleypenW GermanyClimber성공--
Ulrich SchumW GermanyClimber---
Ruth SteinmannSwitzerlandClimber---
Klaus SuessW GermanyClimber---
Erich VanisAustriaClimber---
Josef WalterW GermanyClimber---
Marianne WalterW GermanyClimber---
Peter WeberSwitzerlandClimber성공사용-
Peter WoergoetterAustriaClimber성공--
Stefan WoernerSwitzerlandClimber성공사용-
Hans ZebrowskiW GermanyClimber성공--
Pasang Norbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Wangchu (Nima Wangchu) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

· 1981 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1981 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222601/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Northeast-Face · 1981 · 웹사이트 (5) ·