원정 개요

Bernhard Guenther - 24 Feb 81

Makalu II, NW Ridge (Japanese route)
Little food, much wind and snow; summit not reached.

BC - 4900m
BC2 - 5300m
C1 - 6000m about 1 or 2 April

Too much time for load carrying in fixed-camp method, so above C1 on skis with bivouacs.

11 and 12 April reached about 7000m by Franz Seeberger and Luis Sinz. Martin Anwander reached 6700m. Leader only to 6000m because of poor acclimatization.

All members arrived KTM 22 April; staying in Tukuche Peak Rest House
No accidents or frostbite. All well.
Leave KTM next week.


Guenther & Seeberger - 3 March 81

All members now here; leave KTM 6 March to Tumlingtar.

Route maybe East Ridge; in any case put BC at foot of Chago Glacier, climb up Glacier to Makalu La. From pass go either north up South Ridge or cross pass and go round right of South Ridge to East Ridge.

Oxygen medical only.


Guenther - 18 Feb 81

Route from Makalu La up South Ridge, same as French 1954.
Total 4 climbing members; others arrived 22 Feb and 1 March.
No Sherpas above BC
Leave KTM 4 March to Tumlingtar on scheduled flight
Arrive BC in 10-12 days depending on snow
4 weeks maybe 5 weeks climbing
BC 5400m
2 camps above BC:
C1 - 6100-6200m
C2 - 7000m

Hotel Cozy - 2 March, 9:00


Nep Tkg, J. P. Lama, Topyang Lama - 4 Feb 81

Germany Makalu II arrived 1 March; leave 3 March for Tumlingtar.

Leader probably Bernhard Guenther who arrived KTM middle Feb.