원정 개요

Schell, Schauer and Bachler - 30 May 81

BC - 5300m - 4 April
C1 - 6300m - 9 April
C2 - 7000m - 15 April
C3 - 7500m - 22 April
C4 - 7800m - 24 April

Summit by Schauer 25 April. After 15 April too much snow and wind; then one push to C3 and up.
Bachler arrived BC 14 April.

Schauer to C3 with Sherpas and back on 22nd April to C2. 23 April again Schauer and Sherpas to C3 and Sherpas down while Schauer alone. 24 May in beautiful weather he made C4 and 25 May to top: started 6:30 am in good weather but high clouds in mid-day: reached top 17:15 hrs (had determined would stop ascent by 17:00 hrs). Biv at 8100m after slipping 100m and losing ice axe and hammer and managed to find couloir at 19:30-20:00 hrs.

Entire climb by Schauer without any oxygen. In fall thought really the end but managed stop himself with points of crampons, tumbling head over heels at 8200m down to 8100m at 2 pm.

26 April Schauer to C4, slept 2 hours and lot of drinking and then to C1; other 3 and 3 Sherpas tried for summit [afterwards].

1 May left BC to C1
2 May in C2
3 May in C2 in storm
4 May to C3
5 May to C4
6 May - weather bad and not feeling strong and descended and rested
12 May - 3 members and 2 Sherpas from BC to C1
13 May - to C2
14 May - to C3
15 May - to C4 and Bachler and Hilmar [Sturm] made fixed rope to 8000m
16 May - in C4 in bad weather
17 May - Bachler alone up without oxygen and reached 50m below summit left Col
8:00 am; had only thin gloves and weather changed for worse so down to
C4 at 3:00 pm; others members to C2 and Sherpas to C3 with one ill and
needed escort (he used oxygen)
18 May - all down, hoped to go up again alpine-style but weather always bad
20 May - gave up

Route = NW Face; not real face = northwest side, same as 1978 spring Warth
expedition and 1955 French; also same as Scott 1980 autumn.
No accidents or frostbite
Climbed no other peaks


Mr Herwig Derstrenscheg of Graz - 6 May 81

Robert Schauer made an unaccompanied ascent of Makalu on 25 April.
Others hope to go to top early May.


Postcard dated - 23 April 81

BC - 5400m
C1 - 6300m
Makulu La 7400m reached by Schauer 22 April 81 alone


Schell - 16 March 81

Austrian Makalu Expedition
1 member arrived end of March
Route = NW Face (French route)
15 days from Tumlingtar to BC so reach BC end March/early April
BC - 5400m
4 camps above BC
C1 - 6300m
C2 - 7000m
C3 - 7400m
C4 - 7800-8000m
3 Sherpas above BC
Oxygen for some members
Summit early-middle May

Leave KTM 20 March to Dharan by road; thence walk to BC via Tumlingtar (arrive T'tar about 25/26 March).