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Lindblad & Olin - 29 May 81

BC arrived 30 March some members and others 4 April.
BC established 6 April - 4200m
C1 occupied 8 April - 5200m
C2 " 12 April - 5800m
C3 " 27 April - 6200m

Lot of snowfall and different glacier steep ice had to fix rope and different find route to C3; reasons for 2 weeks between C2 and C3.

C4 - 1 May - 6650m
C5 - 4 May - 7100m

Glacier Dome summit 5 May by Germain, Sandberg and Cronlund on from C5 in 1/2 hours to top and back to C5 and BC.

Route on Glacier Dome = Southwest side (slope 35-40 degrees, not a face).

8 & 9 - May all in C3, 2-3 days constant snowfall.

10 May - Ake Back, Lars Back and Olin tried to reach summit, but it was bad weather and could see nothing. Put pole at high point and later were told this was 40-50m below top of this dome. Went directly from C3 and couldn't find C5 and returned to C3 in very hard climb.

11 May 3 members climbing for East Summit and left C4 for C5: Sandberg, Cronlund and Lindblad. Wahlund also with the 3.

12 May - 3 from C5 to Glacier Dome summit and 3 to site of C6 which found too late to place where wanted it; put it at 7150m at foot of ridge up to Roc Noir.

13 May - 3 up towards Roc Noir. Cronlund and Lindblad crossed 5-6m below summit and moved C6 to step up to Roc Noir at 7250m and stayed night at this site east of Roc Noir.

14 May - Sandberg to help ferry equipment up to Roc Noir and he then descended to C3, while other 2 continued out on ridge west of Roc Noir (all 3 went again across South Face of Roc Noir 5-6m below summit). 2 made C7 at 7500m west of Roc Noir.

15 May - 2 from C7 to attempt East Summit of Annapurna I along saw tooth ridge which took longer then expected and where flat was loose deep snow. Reached foot of 10 slope up to East Summit at about 7500m altitude. Weather looked bad so started back to C7 at about 1:00 pm. Did not reach C7 because snowfall and electrical storm and couldn't see, so dug snow cave which was not far from C7 but too steep down to camp. 10:00-11:00 pm weather cleared though windy and reached C7 at midnight or so where spent rest of night. Had no bivouac equipment: took 4 hours to dig cave with 1 ice axe.

16 May - to C6 of 7150m.

17 May - to C3. Met Doctor Wahlund and Sandberg at C5 to meet them and help them down.

No second push to East Summit because no members strong and food running out.

5 km from Glacier Dome to East Summit and another 2 kms to main summit
Germans in 1969 passed Roc Noir. Don't know how far west they reached.
Westman hit in hard by ice block just below C3, couple bones broken.

Lindblad and Cronlund little frostbite.

Avalanching close to Sandberg and Wahlund passed over their heads 5 meters beside C2 while evacuating mountain.

Summits Glacier Dome:
5 May - Germain
Sandberg
Cronlund

12 May - Sandberg
Cronlund
Lindblad
Wahlund

Summits Roc Noir:
13 May - Cronlund
Lindblad

14 May - Cronlund
Lindblad
Sandberg

16 May - Cronlund
Lindblad

C6A, 7150m - 12 May
C6B, 7250m - 13 May
C7, 7500m - 14 May
Farthest west point 7500m - 15 May


Tourism Ministry - 17 May 81, 5:00 pm

Swedes abandoned climbing on 15 May because of bad weather.


Shalendra Sharma - 15 May 81

2nd Glacier Dome party did not reach top. Were 75m below summit but at the time in dense fog they thought they were on top. Left stick at their high point and next day could see stick and see it was not on top.

1.5 km horizontal foot of Annapurna East (8010m).


Bergstson (Swedish journalist) - 11 May 81

Will attempt summit 14th May by Sandberg, Cronlund, Lindbladh, Sherpa Mingma.

All going [well] according to Schnidher - down from C5 and C4 with 4 days and bad weather.
- C6 tomorrow at about 7200m = 250m under Roc Noir
- C7 at end of 5 km ridge under Annapurna East peak about 7460m

Will go for East Summit only probably because weather too bad.

One man broke 2 fingers of left hand in fall of ice block about 10 days ago: Kenneth Westman and is in BC.

All others OK except for usual headaches and stomach trouble.

Glacier Dome climbed 4 May by Germain, Sandberg, Lars Cronlund
Glacier Dome = Swedish altitude record in mountain.


Olin, Lindblad & Westman - 20 March 81

Approach via Modi Khola to BC slightly northwest of point 12,430 on Harka's map.
BC - 4500m

Same route to Glacier Dome as 1969 Germans via Col between Tent Peak and Glacier Dome and up SW Ridge of Glacier Dome. Then west on Ridge to Roc Noir, traverse Roc Noir 10m below summit, and then traverse the 3 summits of Annapurna I.

7 km Col Dome to East summit
9 km Col Dome to Main summit of Annapurna I 500m between camps
C4 - on ridge between Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome
C5 - 7000m just below Glacier Dome
C6 - 7000m on ridge just east or west of Roc Noir
Maybe down Poles South Face
10 members including doctor
4 Sherpas above BC

12 oxygen med and perhaps for sleeping in high camps, but not for climbing: 2 in BC, 10 in high camps.

Glacier Dome altitude? probably 7142m - not 7793m
Swedish Himalayan Expedition 1981
1st Swedish to Nepal
Leave KTM 23 March, arrive BC after 6-8 days from Pokhara

Glacier Dome summit depends on seracs and other conditions; no target date but hope before 1st May.

To Annapurna main summit another week, but depends on weather conditions and our condition; perhaps first go back to BC and wait a week.